Daily Front Row

2010 August 23

Summer Designer Series: Monique Péan

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Monique Péan
BILLY FARRELL/PatrickMcMullan.com View Gallery

(NEW YORK) Blood diamonds? Not a chance. In the midst of so much controversy over the origin of precious gems, it’s refreshing to see a designer firmly rooted in sustainability. Meet Monique Péan. The runner up for the 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, she creates stunning, one-of-a-kind jewels that incorporate recycled gold and conflict-free diamonds from Australia, as well as other materials you were likely fascinated with when you went through that paleontology stage as a youngster. The result is understated splendor with an even more beautiful story behind it that perennially chic First Lady Michelle Obama has embraced. The Daily caught up with Péan after her return from a Moroccan adventure---and before her premiere at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
ELIZABETH LANDERS

Where are you, exactly?
I’m in NYC in my studio, but I just got back from Morocco and I’m excited about this weather in the city. In Morocco, it’s 107 degrees! I went there for fun on vacation but it was really inspiring---the food, the colors, the textures...

You earned a B.A. in philosophy, political science and economics. How did that prepare you for fine jewelry design?
Philosophy definitely influenced my studies and design philosophy in terms of sustainability. One of my favorite philosophies is that you don’t know what your place in society is, so you plan for the greater good instead. I believe that everyone should take that into account. To me, it is really important to give back and starting my company allowed me to combine art, philanthropy, and sustainability. For example, each piece of jewelry we sell provides clean drinking water for 10 people for 20 years, because the wells we help fund last for 20 years. We employ locals community members in Mozambique, Haiti and Malawi, so it’s something that they’ve worked for, not just been given.

What keeps you going?
Indigenous art and culture. I am constantly searching to find a group of artisans who have interesting techniques. Then I travel to that community and learn about the history and culture of the people.

That’s a very hands-on approach!
Well, my father worked as a senior advisor in economic development at the United Nations and my mother was artist. So, I grew up traveling all over the world and as we did, my family collected a large assortment of indigenous art. That’s why the first collection I ever designed was inspired by the Tuareg tribe in Mali, Africa who I had encountered in my travels.

Your recent Bering Collection was inspired by Native Alaskan artists. How did that come about?
Well, I had been to Alaska only once before, but I heard about these natives that practiced all-subsistence hunting. While they are out hunting, they find this amazing pieces of bone and fossil that is rising to the surface due to global warming. What I use to completely found material that you can’t search for. Nature has changed the material over time in the most beautiful ways: an ivory bone turns blue over 25,000 years.

Are you an outdoorsy ?
I love sports, but the first time I went to the Arctic Circle, I was wearing Marc Jacobs. I was not prepared for negative degree temperatures in the summer.

Do you find that being eco-friendly and sustainable ever limits your designs?
Sometimes, it’s definitely a challenge, but that’s part of the fun, finding unique materials that you can incorporate into luxury product. We use everything from Mastodon to coconut to wooly mammoth, objects that are fit for a museum. It forces us to think outside of the box. I’m really inspired by the result of mixing clean modern lines and a symbiotic composition.

What’s your next project?
I am showing for the first time in The Box at the Lincoln Center. I am working with a new material that I am really excited about. I’ve also got my wedding coming up on New Year’s Eve!

At what point did you think, I made it?
I think being fortunate enough to win runner up in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion fund last year was a turning point. Fine jewelry is a very difficult industry to break into because there is a  very high entry point and it’s often generational.

What was your reaction when you found out that Michelle Obama was wearing your designs?
I was amazed and completely honored, especially because she wore several pieces during Earth Month when we are supposed to be raising so much awareness. From the business aspect, that moment helped us get the attention of a clientele we had never reached before. It’s exciting to send people to whitehouse.gov to see pictures!

Walk us through your typical day.
Every day I have a list of 10 things that I set out to do and throughout the day, the list changes because of the media deadlines. I’m used to the world of finance, where everything is structured. The world of fashion is ad hoc. Twenty percent of my day is spent designing, and the rest of the day is spent doing analytical and business work. The drastic rise in the value of gold has us re-pricing all the time, because we use 18k recycled gold in all our pieces. The rest of the day is split between marketing, sales, and helping employees go through the design process. I would say that each piece we make goes through about 500 different steps. We have to make sure that each wooly mammoth is cut carefully. Each piece is a mini-sculpture.

What do you like to do in your free time?
I love to travel. Whenever I get a chance, I hop on a plane. When I was in London I made a split-second decision to go to Morocco. I bought the ticket at 1 a.m. and was on the plane by 6 a.m. I was even flagged in security because they were wondering who this person buying a ticket for five hours later!

What would be your dream for your brand?
In 10 years, I’d love to see Monique Péan as a leader in sustainable luxury goods. We also plan to launch other products, so stay tuned!