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2012 September 28

Paris Spring 2013: Roland Mouret, Chalayan

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Roland Mouret Spring 2013 Roland Mouret Spring 2013
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(PARIS) Roland Mouret
That squared neckline, winnowed waist, and peaked shouldered shape which arguably put Mouret on the map a few seasons ago has evolved into equally sculptural details sprouting in new places, offering flattery and interest for a far wider range of wearers.  Asymmetrical dresses in (shocker!) that B&W combo du season, entwined around the neck and nearly touching the chin, are riveting yet quite demure.  A healthy dose of white collars floating on bare clavicles, dickey-esque in construction, on all-white ensembles conjured up inverse harnesses. Also of interest: strong pieces in bright red, a great story of greys and hunter green paneling towards the beginning, and a series of all-leather looks with Mouret's signature twists and folds. 

No cold shoulders here! Chalayan's vision for Spring fluctuated between extreme boxiness, often in shirtdressed form, and undulating curves, in a visual amuse bouche of copious white, buttercup, and bits of lime and clementine. The vibe got slightly sportier once a splash of royal blue was introduced, set off in skirt suit form when paired with a camel and orange vertically color-blocked topper. Lending a spacebot aura: chapeaus flaunting oversized brims, colored-lenses shielding the eyes beneath, paired with severely slicked-back buns. Landing a bit closer to earth? Well-cut noir head-to-toe when kicking things off, and a set of retooled tennis whites, dapped with subtle highlighter-hued paneling (tucked near the underarms, say) and finished with rounded shoulders donning a trio of athletic pastel stripes.

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