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2011 September 26

Spring 2012: Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino Cheap & Chic, Emilio Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo

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(MILAN) Marni
Ladylike elegance emerged unexpectedly from juxtaposing typically saccharine pastels and often severe, pared-down architectural silhouettes at Marni. Sheer slips of single-layer organza peeked out from below every hemline, creating a sense of uniformity—the prettiest uniform one could imagine. Groovy floral prints, covered in daisies hued like Jordan almonds or shades of chocolate and lime—felt plucked from a ‘60s rec room. Silhouettes came in softly rounded coats, plus flared, slightly trumpeted skirts and dresses, with tasteful cutouts in back, in a seemingly cacophonous but also completely coordinating mix of Magnified circular, lemon-like patterns danced down the runway right before an interesting take on fallen fauna in crisp white and more of those retro palettes. Fringed windowpane knits looked fresh enough in a spangle-free, earthy first iteration, but even that got kicked up a few notches with the addition of sparkling black and ivory palliettes. Consuelo Castiglioni’s latest was a fair lady indeed, with a savory smidge of edge and refined grit. We hope this Marni will stick around for a couple more seasons. 

Dolce & Gabbana
Italian splendor to the max moved from the grass to the runway with Stefano and Domenico’s juicy, fruit-frocked latest, outlined in sweetheart necklines, poufy bows cinching the waist, suiting that borrowed its shapes from the ‘40s, along with some sweetly retro flora-strewn sundresses.  Large blooms also graced transparent, sheer frocks with full skirts and playful crop top and bloomer combos. Whimsical, 3-D blossoms textured like retro shower caps in ivory or pale blue edged transparent, knee-length macs and sleeveless floral shifts, and plenty of neutral separates in a spectrum of peach, ecru and bone hues. Collared and daintily takes on being ladylike got twisted through a lens of tangerine-hued PVC and transparent, wide-wrought crocheting. 

Moschino Cheap & Chic
The bounty of the farmer’s market was fully in season at Moschino’s Spring 2012 show, with a whimsical (as always) array of apple-edged, strawberry patterned—avec seeds and stem, to boot— cutesy buttons in the shape of carrots and such, and punchy daisy-laden shifts were Additional punches of playfulness—since, after all, there’s never a shortage of lightheartedness on the Moschino runway!— came across in candy-colored crochet paneling, ruffled maxis, and seriously fun platforms to ground everything with. With actual produce as a mouthwatering backdrop, Cheap & Chic’s latest collection of appealingly kitschy wares looked as crave-worthy as the actual edibles on the premises. 

Emilio Pucci
A harem of haute gypsy vixens smoldered on the Pucci runway for Spring 2012, with creative director Peter Dundas’ midriff-baring, hot-hued slew of lace-edged, kerchief-hemmed confections that were unabashedly sensual. Heavy lids, crucifixed chokers, beheaded hair, and flashes of skivvies made a sexpot out of the Pucci hallmarks of blouson shapes and profusions of patterns. A boxy, nipped blazer here and a few bandeaus with flowing sleeves kept things interesting from look to look. And if there were any lingering doubts about the attention Dundas’ latest could—and will—elicit beyond the catwalk, refer to Gwyneth Paltrow’s sheer, black and Champagne crop topped getup that graced (and spiced up) last week’s Emmys…

Salvatore Ferragamo
St. Barts, anyone? Massimiliano Giornetti booked a one-way ticket to the tropics for Spring with an emphasis on beachy prints and a bright color palette chock-full of aqua, fuchsia, citrus, ruby red, and a touch of midas gold. Giornetti’s jumping off point was a bold palm-fronds jumpsuit paired with a shiny red blazer. From there, he toyed with the must-have getaway dress by playing with the breezy silhouette—twisting a halter neckline, adding a waist sash tied up in a floppy bow, or raising the hemline to just above the knee for those bronze-to-boardroom days. At one point the seasoned designer injected his ten year knowledge of Ferragamo menswear into the collection with pretty plaid suiting or boyish pinstripes on boxy blazers and roomy high-waisted ankle trousers. By the time eveningwear sashayed down the runway in color-blocked gowns and a standout liquid gold concoction, the crowd had reached a consensus: More please!




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