2011 September 16
Spring 2012: Marc Jacobs
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(NEW YORK) Marc Jacobs
Is it going to be possible to write this review without referencing the impending likelihood of Jacobs' Dior takeover? No? Okay then. His Spring 2012 collection was all about spectacle—the kind that Dior has relied on under its ousted creative director John Galliano. A wooden floor, naked old-school lightbulbs, Phillip Glass' Einstein on the Beach—it had a faintly Boardwalk Empire feel, tinged with Western (plastic-panelled cowgirl boots) and spangle (skirts dripping in paillettes of all sorts). Dropped waists, ruffled skirts, and even cellophane dresses mixed with rumpled taffeta skirts, cropped pleathery jackets, and plaid slipdresses. (There were a few checked separates and suiting thrown in for good measure.) As usual, Jacobs' spectacle was tremendous fun, full of the kind of energy and sparkle that (dare we say it?) a couturier must master. He's game for the challenge.
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