2011 September 20
Spring 2012: Erdem, Pringle of Scotland, Temperley London, Aquascutum
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Powder blue florals fashioned into equally femme silhouettes—sleekly cut trenches, knee length numbers with demurely-revealed clavicles and delicate lacy sleeves—alternated with plenty of crisply-cut white eyelet, button downs and frothy flared skirts. Even the visages were classically ladylike, thanks to pitch-perfect red pouts paired with clean-swept ponytails. Beyond the bevy of baby blues that kicked off the show, Erdem Moralioglu plucked lemon and lilac blooms and arranged them on slim-cut capris, while button-downs got traced in more blossoms—but even amid the lace and lush flora, the look didn’t veer into chintzy territory. Pointy-toed kitten heels in coordinating straps underscored the super-femme vibe. Bottom line: English roses (and ladylike Anglo appreciators out there) will certainly be erring on the side of Erdem come Spring.
Pringle of Scotland
The classic cardigan purveyor has certainly grown up—and in some cases, that proverbial cardi has been shucked off, or creatively spliced and buttoned. With Alistar Carr at the helm for his debut collection at Pringle of Scotland, knits remained the main attraction, but with splashes of graphic, cube-shaped motifs and jagged contrasting yoke detailing to punch things up. The seminal argyles of Pringle’s heritage emerged ever so faintly via the likes of a bone and pale gray diamond-etched knit, and chic slate trousers—cropped; narrow—grounded the faint hints of a prep-loved pattern. When the cardigans did come out to play, Carr got creative with fetching, retro-tinged ombre link designs done in bright orange or lime fading into dark backgrounds. Dresses were draped, slouchy and often asymmetrical, done in noir and navy coursing with flashes of white, while boxier short frocks in (more) B&W were cleanly cut and modestly embellished. Unlike Carr’s predecessor, Clare Waight Keller, who dabbled more heavily, literally and figuratively, in the brand’s deep archives of Fair Isle knits, herringbones, and the cozy ilk, Carr treaded with a lighter touch and a sharper, sleeker aesthetic in mind for today’s Pringle lass.
Spring in the dressy trenches of Alice Temperley’s design domain took cues from an unlikely duo of silver screen characters: Grace Kelly in High Society, plus Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface. Perhaps the former informed the slightly undone glam of ivory head wraps, stately blooms or slightly exotic drop-waisted embroidery on peachy backdrops, while the latter emerges in the lascivious satins—ranging in hue from terra cotta to pear to cream—and other numbers reminiscent of negligees, cut with plunging necklines and spaghetti-strapped shoulders. Espadrille-esque platforms, some in a zingy lemonade hue, peeked out of deep front slits and from beneath swingy jumpsuits. Ruffled tap shorts and hot pants in a chic tux-inflected series flaunted some gams alongside fringed gowns and black lace paneling, underscored the dressier ethos of Temperley’s latest. Enough vampy pizzazz on the runway to distract from the presence of the saucier Middleton (that would be Pippa) sitting front row.
Khaki and light tweeds got kicked up a few notches with perplexingly-layered skirts and well-trimmed trenches, bordered in black, in Aquascutum’s sportif-inflected latest for Spring. Shiny PVC shells and pencil skirts in shades of chalky gray and ivory, avec a fleet of pointy-toed, slightly sneaker-like flats, lent an athletic vibe. Meanwhile, slick yet slightly sporty suiting emerged in the form of creamy, wide-cut suiting with sheer paneled button-downs tucked into creased trousers. Slim, knee-length capris paired with a sleek, strong-shouldered coat in all-black couldn’t have looked more apropos as heavy-rotation additions to a classic New Yorker’s closet. Looks like creative director Joanna Sykes, a year and a half into her new gig, has slightly punked up a classic Brit brand with her Spring collection. Nothing like a bit of PVC and some scintillating sheers to ratchet up the intrigue!
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