Daily Front Row

2012 January 23

São Paulo Fashion Week: Reinaldo Lourenco, Ellus, Mario Queiroz, FH for Fause Haten

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Reinaldo Lourenco Fall 2012-13
Photo courtesy FFW View Gallery

(SAO PAULO) Reinaldo Lourenco
How do you take your communion? With a side of vamp, s'il vous plait. São Paulo superstar Reinaldo Lourenco staged his latest show at the FAAP, a Bazilian college founded in the 1500s, with a front row buzzing avec local football players, Real Housewives, and a handful of designers like Alexandre Herchcovitch and Reinaldo’s son, Pedro. The quaint university building was transformed into an organ pipe alter space with a prayer candle backdrop as Lourenco’s “new urban witches” paraded out in their gothiest Sunday best. Take, for instance, the forties-style power suits cut from black vinyl and gabardine. Or the sinfully body-con sheaths in black velvet and leather. For a pop of color, Lourenco wove in a smattering of ethereal silk georgette frocks with fur-trimmed hoods, followed by a militaristic sequence of ruby leather skirt suits, complete with horizontal cutouts held together by confessional-worthy crystal buttons.

Ellus
In case you ever wondered what a heavy metal Viking might wear on a night out (who doesn’t?), look no further than Ellus' latest! Adriana Bozon designed a Nordic-themed collection fit for the urban warrior. First, there was stage one: an all-black lineup bursting with luxe-for-less leather separates, peplum jackets, “leather” denim cigarette pants, and mod squad minis. Then came the red group, with Michael Jackson moto vests and lace and leather coat dresses, cinched just so at the waist. For the finale? The butternut brigade: leather tees, fingerless studded gloves, and metallic kilts that garnered whoops from the front row and the first standing O of the week.

Mario Queiroz
The look: futuristic Art Deco. The concept: sustainability. Mario Queiroz’s guidepost this season centered around recycling the old with the new using fabrics of collections past. The result: a cacophony of dark jacquard trousers over metallic swing skirts layered with tailored mixed-material blazers (think grey checked wool combined with pleated silver organza). The oversized jingle-jangle brooches might scream runway, but the retail-ready separates will make their mark with Queiroz's loyal followers at the register in August.

FH for Fause Haten
An Elvis-esque retrospective shook up the catwalk of Brazilian luxury brand FH for Fause Haten over the weekend. The local favorite, sold in 75 stores in 15 states, has been producing "special wear" since the mid-eighties, so it was only a matter of time until Haten explored rock 'n' roll territory, namely the King. Palm-fronds gowns and jewel-toned floor-sweepers--edged in asymmetrical hemlines or bedazzled with Hawaiian perennials--shared the runway with ballooning ball gowns for debs and downtown-meets-uptown tuxes for the gents who haven’t left the building.