Daily Front Row

2012 January 23

São Paulo Fashion Week: R.Rosner, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Iódice, Triton

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R.Rosner Fall 2012-13
Photo courtesy FFW View Gallery

(SAO PAULO) R.Rosner
Rodrigo Rosner borrowed a line from Alexander McQueen’s playbook for his debut catwalk collection, sending a troupe of leggy flappers down a goth glam runway in a mélange of soigne capelets, beaded jumpsuits, and laboriously handiworked gowns in lace, organza, and taffeta. Itsy-bitsy Black Swan dresses—some with a dip-dyed rainbow color palette; others with coquettish cutouts at the waist—lent the decidedly moody collection an air of lightness while nodding to Rosner’s moth-inspired theme with organza petal skirts shaped like fluttery wings. As for the accessories, avant-garde neoprene chapeaux sprinkled in crystals and Victorian, bow-bedecked mules were instant crowd pleasers.

Alexandre Herchcovitch
Mystery is the name of the game at chez Herchcovitch. One minute he’s collaborating with McDonald’s for cheeky, supersize me uniforms; the next minute, he’s whipping up rubber footballer getups for his high-profile clientele. This season, that element of surprise came in the form of a mustard yellow nylon puffer paired with gold lace and plaid gabardine on princess coats and sheath dresses. Don’t have a penchant for sportif puffer? Pas de problème! There’s plenty of elegant, wear-anywhere pieces from dual-toned eggplant and coral trenches and plaid-lace cocoon coats to tartan camel skirts coupled with silk crepe blouses.

Iódice
Inspired by Gianni Versace’s Rock and Royalty page-turner, Valdemar Iódice lived out his own onstage fantasy with a mixed bag of all things eighties: metallic lurex jumpers, sequined Grecian dresses with knee-high gladiators, black leather waist-hugging pants, gold sequined boleros, and a boxy python print boyfriend blazer or two for good measure. Club tested, São Paulo approved.

Triton
Notre Dame and medieval art were the starting points for Triton’s Fall 2012 runway, but creative director Karen Fuke painted a more modern day portrait of the 12th century cathedral using a kaleidoscope of architectural motifs and stained glass prints atop prep school-worthy silhouettes fit for its companion college. Ergo, vivid crepe day dresses for lectures, geometric trouser and blouse sets for weekend wear, and graphic suiting for those crucial post-grad interviews. Plus, Fuke tweaked the ubiquitous letterman jacket with seventies stripes and updated the classic pea coat with a patchwork of prints. Class is officially in session.