2010 June 10
Runway Reviews: Sao Paulo Fashion Week, Day 1
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(SAO PAULO) Tufi Duek
For designer Edaurdo Pombal, this collection was all about transparency---which, if it wasn't already evident from the slew of sheer clothes, was made clear (no pun intended) by the scrim-like background behind the runway, allowing showgoers to peek the silhouettes of the models being last-minute primped backstage. (How very Isaac circa Unzipped!) As for the clothes themselves, yes, they were mostly transparent, but not in any shortage of treatments: shiny, plasticky underlays were topped with loose-weaves or lace and saran wrap-like panels made peek-a-boos of the backs of dresses. The silhouettes stayed classic---sheath dresses, boxy shell tops, and some fantastic trousers---and the color palette muted enough for the collection to stay on the right side of outrageous. Black, white and cream were shot through with hits of neon for a futuristic slant.
More is more for Erika Ikezili, who took her inspiration for the season from "nature’s aggressive power" and "the primitive Brokpa society." Lost? The people, who live in the valleys of Bhutan, are apparently quite taken with their flowers---a sentiment Ikezili appears to share. Layers of bright mixed prints evoked her inspirational fields of flowers, and everything had a decidedly arts-and-craftsy touches (including the headpieces, stacks of bowler hats with flowers and twigs peeking out between each layer). Busy? Yes. A black lace onesie with a half-orange, half-blue underlay might be particularly tricky to pull off. But even if the Bropkas might not wear these bright, sporty creations, there are certainly a few quirky girls who will.
Sao Paulo Fashion Week star Reinaldo Lourenco sat front and center for Priscila Darolt´s show---an indication of good things to come. Sure enough, Darolt´s lineup of geometric, pieced-together leather and suede pieces might have been the strongest showing of SPFW Day One. They started in red, rust, orange, and coral and merged into pale teals and grays: sleek minidresses with different textures of leather trimming and creating sharp, graphic patterns. Folds and pleats lent a 3D effect, but none were so inaccessible that your average chicette couldn’t sport one for a night on the town. Separates, like skirts in the same treatments, might be even easier to pull off, but without losing that edge. The only criticism might be the lack of variety in the armor-like dresses, but in all likelihood, her customers aren’t complaining.
Founder Amir Slama may have left the company he founded a year ago, but successor Alexandre Herchcovitch is having no trouble picking up the pieces of the star swimwear line. His last collection was shown in New York, but for this season, the brand came back home, putting on a show complete with a live performance positioned right on the runway. In true, super-sexy form, much of the collection was lingerie-inspired: retro pink satin, Blonde Ambition-esque bra cups, corsets in everything from the swimwear to the floaty dresses (in either short skater-flared skirts or long maxi styles) that filled in the collection. Only what was necessary was covered; even in the high-waisted briefs, sheer panels dipped low in the back, exposing the tiniest bit of derriere. As the collection progressed, so did the prints. Sweet florals became bright psychedelic prints and plaid made a brief appearance. Victoria’s Secret Angel types, take note: this collection’s not for everyone, but it is for vous.
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