2010 September 17
Runway Reviews: Calvin Klein Collection, Oscar de la Renta
(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein Collection
A master of architectural conceptualism, Francisco Costa's fabric research always yields the most interesting textures on New York's runways. But his hyper-obsessive focus on silhouette and shape resulted in a collection for Calvin Klein that will make his particular take on minimalism the maximum statment to take away from New York's Fashion Week. So much to want! So much to buy! Expect Costa's three key trends—long sleeves, statement pants, and dropped waists—to reverberte all around Europe in the next three weeks. But despite the emphasis on coverage, there was nothing unsexy about this collection. The coupling of fluid silk crepe and the occasional racerback meant that these looks, especially the long-sleeved dresses with a few strategic pleats and the toss-on frock in electric coral, will define "the new sexy" in the March 2010 fashion wells of every fashion magazine that counts. Was this Costa's stronget collection yet? Give us a few more days to look back through the archives. But at any rate—bravo.
Oscar de la Renta
Two recent stories in Vanity Fair and the New York Times have reintroduced the Greenbriar, in all its Dorothy Draper-esque sass, as a frame of reference for everything from food to fashion. Oscar de la Renta's Spring 2011 collection nods back to the property's glory days, when The Platters were all the range and even bingo night was black-tie—although it's a bit too sophisticated for today's casino. At any rate, de la Renta indulged just enough nostalgia to drum up an optimistic and romantic collection that could charm even the staunchest minimalist. From raffia-embroidered linen separates to tweed sheaths now-ified with a red leather belt, the daywear was reliable as ever for the ladies-who-lunch set of staunch Oscarites. A younger customer will look equally civilized in windowpane plaids and candystriped silk separates. But why even bother dressing for day when such magnificence waits come nightfall? Like the usual breathless reactions to Dolce & Gabbana's traditional parade of gowns in Milan, it's second nature to admire de la Renta's evening looks, because they deserve applause every season. But for Spring, they felt particularly rejuvinated. Bergdorf has probably already ordered a few dozen of the silk faille numbers, but it's the wackier dresses that proved most exciting—the final celandon splendor with pink carnation appliques, the embroidered leafy sculpure sported by Freja, and the pink silk chiffon monument to ruffles, lightly touched with gold metallic brushstrokes on Lindsey Wixson. Let's hope these show up on a young beauty at ABT. But the most memorable? The timeless, sublimely glamorous blush silk gown, light as air and shimmering with subtle beadwork, on Lily Donaldson. No wonder Rachel Zoe was snapping away furiously. Oscar, consider this one reserved for awards season.
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