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2012 September 28

Paris Spring 2013: Vionnet, Maison Martin Margiela

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Vionnet Spring 2013 Vionnet Spring 2013
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(PARIS) Vionnet
Red, white, and black draped dresses and pantsuits were de riguer—jersey is great for travel, after all—but the look was a bit stale. Madame Vionnet has been reinterpreted dozens of ways by the designers to hit her house in her wake, and the latest interpretation—if it sticks—is lacking in her sense of fearlessness and invention. And no doubt the Vionnet customer is suffering from chronic confusion.

Maison Martin Margiela
Another house forging ahead following the departure of its founder—in this case, retirement—and after a few funky seasons, la Maison seems to be finding its footing. A boxy, strapless silhouette was the key concept, worn as a tank with a mid-length or floor-grazing skirt. A groovy black pantsuit with a tie-on top and a barely-sheer, massively oversized ballgown skirt/tee combo were among the most directional looks, but it was the first dress, a strapless leather number in dove grey that was surprisingly flattering, that had the front row at hello.

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