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2012 October 1

Paris Spring 2013: Kenzo, Hermès, Costume National

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Kenzo Spring 2013 Kenzo Spring 2013
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(PARIS) Kenzo
Amped-up leopard prints, equal parts citrus-y hues and verdant jungle shades, and sharper lines courtesy of khaki and washed-out grays to tie it all together: looks like third time's a charm for Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, with a vibrant, quirked-up but eminently wearable selection for Spring. Construction cone orange was put to good use, whether as solid, wide-legged pants or as various shades of teal. On the pieds front, knee-high boots, sprouting with windbreaker-like liners alternated with strap-happy heels that clashed delightfully with the patterned runway. As for fanatics of last season's chiced up Kenzo sweatshirt? It's back, arguably cooler this time around, and on a trip to the jungle. 

Shorts were the longest, and certainly loudest, story in Christophe Lemaire's Spring lineup, spanning the gamut from flared and scarflike to some brilliant, boxy versions in crocodile, to micro noir pairs acting as mere underpinnings for the leather-heavy layerings pieced together above. As for those croc gams-flaunters, that cobalt pair towards the show's close lingered on the mind, as did the luxe-sportif motif of the duo of toppers they were paired with (ditto for that cropped mustard-hued jacket that walked down the runway one getup earlier). 

Costume National 
Choppy dressing, ruled by sharp and often jagged lines, got executed in black, electric fuchsia, and tomato, offering asymmetrically undressed takes on suiting up. The rare moments where the left matched the right, or there was nary a strap or cincher of some sort dangling in some direction, provided the most surprise. Besides that nearly-glowing, piquant pink throughout (How favorably it goes with red trim? Subjective.), the influx of black and minimal patterns—confined to just two photo prints cropping up, but not competing by any stretch with the mishmash of jutting hemlines and intentionally mismatched silhouettes. 

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