2012 October 1
Paris Spring 2013: Givenchy, Céline, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Giambattista Valli
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Ruffles: officially a trend! Ghesquiere wasn't the only French designer feeling the frilly stuff for Spring—Riccardo Tisci went there, too, opening his show with a sexy powder blue frock with a fluttering panel around the armholes and neckline. Gone—mostly—were the overtly gothic influences, and instead, the religous undertones were on the holier side. Organza blouses and dresses, full of movement, were blissfully modern in their simplicity, and they would have earned rigorous approval from a certain Hubert. Long tunics over slim pants were a bit more aescetic, while a smattering of diaphanous lace dresses will appeal to romantics.
Spring is about to have a new statement shoe—provided you feel warm and fuzzy about fur. For a minimalist like Phoebe Philo, mink pumps and slipper-sandals constitutes a departure indeed, and despite her typically streamlined style happening up top, the curious footwear signaled a new, more relaxed day has dawned. Pajama dressing, that trend that just won't quit, manifested here in satin pants and soft-shouldered jackets. Loose, flyaway trench coats are sure to be must-haves, while draped tunics, knotted around the necklines, should become wardrobe basics for the next decade, at least.
Le nouveau Western! In Hedi Slimane's hautely-anticipated first outing for the house, a darkly Western vibe, rife with the classic safari look that Saint Laurent (as in Yves) pioneered so brilliantly, made for a massive hit. Floppy hats, tie-neck blouses, suede lace-up tunics, flowing capes—all were executed with a moody, agressive sensibility that said to fashion, and beyond, "Hello, world." There are plenty of "it" pieces to be ogled: A tiered black lace dress, a double-breasted military jacket, a fringed, suede skirt, and of course, those barrage of finale caftans that will bring out the boho in every chicette.
When sporty goes sexy! Leave it to Stella to merge military shapes, athletic elements, and even eyelet to such winning effect. She began by paring down a baseball jacket to almost its muslin form, worn over a body-con tube dress with trompe l'oeil skirting. A layered-up sweatshirt, made of diaphanous, tech-y fabric in orange and white, was just as fetching as the dress, while one (of many!) piéce de résistance was an army green belted tunic with strong shoulders. The military motif was especially fun in a slouchy olive pant paired with a fitted grass-green bustier.
Is Valli's streamlining of his RTW collection a direct response to his foray into couture? If so, bravo. The designer's clean, tailored take on Spring was an exercise in transparency (lace, organza), texture (brocade), and suiting (shrunken jackets and cropped, tapered trousers). Particularly fetching? A crinkled, gold short-sleeved jacket, an ornately embellished tunic/trouser combo on Hanne, and a slouchy jacket/pencil skirt in a delightfully retro shade of yellow.
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