2012 March 5
Paris Fall 2012: Haider Ackermann, Vivienne Westwood
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(PARIS) Haider Ackermann
A deliciously, dramatically cinched parade of jewel tones mingling with an appealing array of deep, moody neutrals set with sculptural draping ruled on Ackermann's runway, commanding a standing ovation for his haute craftsmanship. And for good reason: polished pairing after pairing brimmed with fluid blousing, peaked peplums, generous slits, and a plethora of sharply cut blazers. The neckline was a sartorial erogenous zone for Ackerman, via a spectrum of pooling cowls, tweaked funnels, and pinned-down plungers (the latter looking particularly delightful on a series of neatly folded origami-esque frocks in bronze or plum). As tightly-tuned as the tailoring was, those color pairings are what sealed the deal on Ackermann's extremely successful collection. To wit: marigold married to pumpkin and raisin in a few deftly piled numbers, or a boxy, cropped cerulean coat atop shiny, creased bronze skinnies with a flash of oxblood leather and a wisp of deep grey thrown in the mix. Lots worth standing for, and/or pre-ordering, ASAP.
It's always a rollicking good time on the Westwood runway, and her slew for Fall took cues from Edwardian days melded with a smidge of club-ready frockery and a healthy dose of rakish layering was no exception. Elaborate embroidered frocks emerged in the show's latter half, abruptly punctuated with a rave-y heap of silver spandex bodysuit avec a kite-like rainbow cape. Plumes of tulle, sometimes but not always in the form of a tutu belonging to a freewheeling, off-duty ballerina, also got some face time. Erring on the tame(r) side? Long satin toppers took many a form, from theatrically shouldered noir numbers to a pale pink floor-grazer. Knee-high sport socks, irregularly hemmed jersey clingers, and some quirky suiting were in attendance as well. Never a millisecond of boredom when Vivienne gives up the goods!
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