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2012 January 25

Paris Couture: Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier

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Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2012 Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2012
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(PARIS) Elie Saab 
Monochrome looks drenched in glimmering beading floated down yet another Couture runway, courtesy of Elie Saab's restrained princess-y confections. A melange of sorbet hues in pale blue, pink, and sage got grounded by a dab of cappuccino foam and punched up avec a lick of lemon and a slice of ginger. Saab's macaron box of a collection took shape in equal parts sweetly flounced cocktail frocks and floor-sweeping iterations, most sporting demure necklines but turned out in sheer constructions for a dose of coyness. Amplified white and jade florals swept over a few numbers for Saab's superfemme devotees in need of some respite from the swaths of beading and 3-D blossoms coating the rest of his über pretty looks.

Jean Paul Gaultier
Amy Winehouse functioned as muse for JPG's latest scintillating turnout, providing a grab bag of attention-nabbing numbers with a healthy dose of cheekiness and a morose undercurrent, befitting of the befallen crooner. Cropped tux jackets paired with billowing pants or satin skinnies, all in black, were accessorized with gobs of baubles, ample catwalk swagger, and the occasional cigarette. Exaggerated, jutting fifties hips were sauntered out many a dress, punctuated by a poufy, knotted gown the color of asparagus, a full-length number in pumpkin-hued lace (over noir skivvies, of course) and tiers of sheer netted, ruffled black.  Bountiful, artfully mussed beehives taking a cue or two from Winehouse's trademark bouffants crowned the latest bold gamut of Gaultier creations. 

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