2012 September 8
NYFW Spring 2013: Billy Reid, Suno, Sally LaPointe
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(NEW YORK) Billy Reid
Grab a bottled beverage, cheris! It's party time chez Reid. The Louisiana-based designer returned to Eyebeam with a bang last night offering up a 40-look casual chic collection with a side of gratis Dogfish Ale (a long-honored Billy tradition) to a packed house of country-loving city folk, including Mandy Moore, Rajon Rondo, Russell Westbrook, and Revenge's Gabriel Mann. "I didn't have a theme in mind this season. When we started, there was a lot of color. It was all over the place!" said Reid backstage after the show. "We focused it on shades of white and tan and kept the color toned down." Menswear dominated the scene with 27 John Steinbeck-styled looks, complete with reversible windbreakers and linen trousers, plaid suiting, silk jacquard ascots, and python penny loafers—a testament to his 2012 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award. Womenswear was right in step, thanks to a gauzy Dolman dress under a cognac suede overcoat for day and a silk pelican wrap dress layered over tailored silk trousers for night. Who's ready for round two?
Laura Ingalls Wilder meets Issey Miyake advertisements, circa 1980s. That was the starting point for Suno's Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis who whipped up another rousing rendition of their trademark print-on-print mashups at Milk Studios on Friday night. "The idea was to modernize this American concept of pioneer days," explained Beatty backstage before the show. "We wanted it to feel new and covetable, but also go back to the basics." Mission accomplished. The sartorial time travel spun classic prairie prints like "Layered Weeds" and "Etched Flowers" into cutout tank cocktail dresses, a playful violet-strewn evening gown, and an eighties-esque track suit that Miyake himself would have given a stamp of approval. Layering was another common thread woven throughout the collection, from a linen striped blue cargo vest and cotton button-up over a geo floral jacquard maxi to a washed denim jacket worn with a striped cotton button down, a zip-front denim overall dress, and a dotted prairie ruffle hem dress. A special shoutout goes out to a certain collared tank shirtdress splashed with old timey blue and yellow cell phones.
How does a super secret Russian submarine base on the water translate onto Sally LaPointe's Spring runway? With an unlimited supply of luxe lambskin and a National Geographic color palette, for starters. LaPointe's man versus nature theme played out in structured pieces on one hand, a boxy emerald leather tee or a rust-colored asymmetrical lambskin peplum top with cut-outs circling the waist, and organic, Earth Mother elements on the other. Par exemple? That fluid, ginger gown and those tribal marble print skirts. "During the winter, I would go to the beach and take pictures of rocks and quarries," said LaPointe. "I was trying to capture a mood, and I found it."
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