2012 September 12
NYFW Spring 2013: Oscar de la Renta, Naeem Khan, Sophie Theallet, Sachin + Babi
(NEW YORK) Oscar de la Renta
What you'll never find in an OdlR showing? A lack of options, and Spring '13 is certainly no exception. Those princess-apropos frocks rife with exquisite hits of sparkly embellishment, fields of floral appliqued, and cascading tulle were present; beautifully done frill, basically. And then, some surprise, deft handlings: take that handful of pale pink high-waisted shorts. You'd be hard-pressed to find a designer other than de la Renta who possesses the ability to imbue a dressiness and sophistication to such an item. A bit of verve, within reason, came courtesy of that flash of shiny red latex, with swirly streaks in the coif to match (the latter also came in hues of marigold, fuchsia, and teal, often outfit-coordinated). Ditto for the peekaboo paneled bodices; intricately worked yet kind of sexy, as was the case for the frisky side slit action on a number of pieces. Same for the noir columns with said slits, slinky and demurely devious. The only challenge: whittling down one's Oscar waitlist/wishlist.
For Spring, the king of bling continued his exploration into daywear territory—an avenue he's been toying with since Resort '12—for good reason. It's working for him! There were pretty black separates, like a satin top coat, appliqued with white leather and casual shirtdresses printed with coco-colored sunflowers. Digi prints of oceans and sunsets made an appearance as well, reflecting Khan's summer days abroad. Eveningwear, Khan's bread and butter, rounded out the lineup with bejeweled caftans in vibrant yellow, red, melon, and turquoise. Where do we sign up?
"This is for the woman who dresses for herself. If the trends are right for her, she wears it. If not, she doesn't," explained Sophie Theallet backstage before her runway show. "She's fearless, and she doesn't want anyone to tell her what to wear." Sounds like someone we know, non? "That's my personality, definitely!" she responded with a laugh. On the runway, clothes centered around sweet, organza dresses layered over long-sleeve patterned knits in flashes of lavender, berry, teal, and cinnamon. Additional highlights included Theallet's trademark full-skirted print gowns with a high leg slit and dragon-fly peppered toppers. "While I was researching, I discovered the dragonfly is regarded as either magnificent or spiritual in many cultures,"said Theallet. "That's similar to a woman."
Sachin + Babi
After eyeing a Ryan Holden Singer photo at an auction house, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia found their Spring muse in a rough-and-tumble biker cowboy leaning casually against his dirt splattered moto bike in the open terrain. On his ride? Leather trappings and an old ikat blanket. The image was aptly translated into bohemian maxis, southwestern print dresses wrapped in leather belts, and denim or cargo jackets spliced with native textiles and patchwork embroidery. "I met with Ryan Holden Singer, and he told me about his wonderful backpack trip to Mongolia, where the shot was taken," said Sachin backstage. "Babi and I never got to do a trip like that, so this is our way of living that experience."
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