2012 September 13
NYFW Spring 2013: Michael Kors, Marchesa, Gant by Michael Bastian, Bibhu Mohapatra
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(NEW YORK) MIchael Kors
One of the few designers in New York that puts the top men and women's editors in the same room, Kors' early morning show on Wednesday remains a pivotal one on the calendar, given the designer's expansive reach and breadth of diffusion lines. "I think about everyone at the shows in February and March wearing clothes that are too summery," he told The Daily post-show. "You want to have clothes that will work in February and March, but quite frankly the weather stinks at that time of year. When I want to change my mood, I head out west and spend time in Los Angeles and Palm Springs." Crisp separates awash with pool and cloud photo prints drove this vacay-driven concept, as did the sunny marigold numbers, done in Mod silhouettes (a belted trench here, a brief-hemmed shell shift there). But don't expect strictly poolside attire: rife with stripes and colorful frocks in red, blue, and green, it was a graphic showing aligned with the stripe-y, sixties-happy concepts on other big names on the NYFW, from Marc to Tommy.
This Spring, India served as a marquee inspiration for New York designers, including Marchesa's Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, who cited The Beatles' Maharishi moment circa 1967 as their reference point. From start to finish, the red carpet duo rolled out an elaborately decadent lineup at the Vanderbilt Hall in Grand Central Terminal infused with Middle Eastern flair vi colorful, hand embroidered sari-style gowns in teal, garnet, coral, and fuchsia. To match? Note-worthy gladiator sandals and kitten heels glinting with crystals and pearls. A bordeaux gown fringed from top to toe and embellished at the bodice was especially noteworthy. Similarly, the draped white gown with gold lace tights was an instant crowd pleaser among the likes of Kim Kardashian, Bar Refaeli, Stacy Keibler, and Tyra Banks.
Bastian By Michael Bastian
Another Michael we love switches back and forth between his namesake label and his successful American sportswear collaboration with Gant. This season he takes us to the Galapoagos. "I saw this great documentary on BBC America narrarated by Tilda Swinton...it's so rare to find a place that isn't exploited. We were thinking about this young boy and girl backpacking there and what would they need." Bastian's Wednesday presentation at Industria delivered the goods in spades. Patterns are sparse this season, though there's that signature camo that we've come to expect, knit techniques inspired by Equadorian arts and crafts, and a leaf print. Key pieces for women include a lace-up khaki explorer shirtdress, a fleece sweatshirt wrap cardigan and a hooded mesh pullover shirt. We have a few ideas of what we're going to be packing for beach jaunts next year.
Although Bibhu Mohapatra is making a name for himself in the evening gown arena, his recent foray into daywear is a welcome addition. This time around, Mohapatra translated a luna moth sighting (his first ever) into a geometric print seen on slim-cut dresses, body-hugging skirts, angular jackets, and peplum tops in a color palette anchored in cobalt, chartreuse, white, and blush pink. One particular nighttime diversion: a sweeping noir gown with lace insets on the skirt, cutouts at the waist, and an architectural white bodice with sharp, raised shoulders meant for the likes of Bibhu devotee Cate Blanchett.
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