2012 September 14
NYFW Spring 2013: Calvin Klein
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(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa's meditation on the female form resulted in an archly chic version of the femme fatale. Slightly padded hips and corseted bustlines are about as cartoony as this designer gets—the silhouette is contoured, the waist is cinched, and the interplay of materials and textures creates both structure and movement. A palette of soft white, yellow, putty, ash grey, and dusty blue is appropriately moody. As always, the jackets were sublime, rendered in a bit less structured silk crepe organza, technical viscose, and double faced matte satin, while the shoes, which were inspired by crushed jewelry, had funky gold heels and stomp-worthy platforms. Although the collection was full of technical feats, the most obvious was the black moiré embroidery used to create a cagelike effect over white dresses. Another Costa concept rife with meaning? You bet.
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