2012 September 13
NYFW Spring 2013: Anna Sui, Milly by Michelle Smith, Rachel Zoe, Nanette Lepore
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(NEW YORK) Anna Sui
Punked up French post-Revolutionary opulence was the exuberant theme of Sui's Spring collection. Once the distraction factor of those shiny, helmut-esque hairpieces subsided (pastel blue, baby pink, or lavender sideswept bangs in the front, bouncy au naturel ponytails swinging with each strut), there were poufy brocade frocks underpinned with hole-strewn fishnets, hacked at the ankles and hugging the entire arm's length. A toile tea frock got hit with a heavy dose of navy embellishment and paired with studded denim-like leggings, detracting from any of the print's typical preciousness. The jumpsuit was the style of choice to open the show (in a busy, upholstery-like pattern) and also to make a handful of appearances throughout; layered button downs and vests offered up another petulant silhouette, while animal motifs rounded out the funkiness, in the form of cat ear-shaped chapeaus and hits of cheetah print. Oh so Sui!
Milly by Michelle Smith
Is that you, Milly? The latest from Michelle Smith took a detour from her usual menu of (almost) purely prep to dabble in something a bit edgier under the header of "Contemporary Surrealism," The fresh takes on tweed, body-con florals, and graphic sixties-hewed patterning looked a bit more familiar, but the rest of Smith's stylings felt like a sporty jaunt to space, with a spate of silver python-embossed print pencil skirts, piece-y "power stretch" minidresses and pencil skirts sporting mesh insets, and ponchos, either clear with an iridescent blue sheen or in matte silver. Though it's not what one might expect from Smith, that Pointy-toed stilettos, sporting transparent vamps and bits of neon, or wide T-strapped sandals in noir, grounded things, while science goggle-like eyewear made for a playful statement on one's visage.
Pantsuits left and right, floppy hats atop many a coif, and that avalanche of sequins and shine (Zoe does seem to love her sequins) hit the runway for the stylist-cum-designer's second runway showing. Wide tuxedo stripes and even wider trou legs were pretty seventies glam, while the minis with center-striped booties felt retro. A teal jumpsuit with tapered cuffs, a sweet potato-hued leather jacket tossed on the shoulders was a particularly sophisticated pairing, countering the expanse of palliates intended for the more shine-centric dressers. There should be lots of play for these looks at the plethora of department store selling floors Zoe's collection are bound for.
Pops of pastel pistachio and coral were grounded in black as a unified base hue, with plenty of B&W gingham to go around, from cropped blazers to picnic-ready pants to sweet bustier tops. As a series in lace emerged, so did a sheer white take on that gingham; sweater vests, pattern-blitzed tennis dresses and a coral branch motif done in various colors on maillots, separates, and frocks was a standout in one particular sheer-skirted iteration, solid and contrastively colored on top. Slim vertical stripes and muted, pixilated checkerboard patterns rounded out Lepore's latest, offering a definite something-for-everyone array.
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