2011 February 11
New York Fall 2011: BCBG, Luca Luca, Wes Gordon
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(NEW YORK) BCBG
Max and Lubov Azria's BCBG line kicked off Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Thursday, February 10, and as usual, Max took one focused idea— an riffed on it all show long. This season, it was a minimalistic jersey dress. A little bit seventies, a little bit twenties, it was demure and earth-toned, and often paired with a white turtleneck. If you're having '90s flashbacks, you weren't alone, but the tone was really more seventies, with loose halters and layers of chiffon desweetened with a hip-hugging leather belt. "Pure lines fulfill a desire for simplicity," proclaimed the show notes. "With a tonal palette and flashes of brights, a play on elongated proportions evokes a fresh sensibility and innate seduction." It was "fresh" but "risky," the designer explained. "Either you like it, or you don't."
Yummy textures and a barrage of brights made Raul Melgoza's Fall 2011 collection for Luca Luca a visual treat almost as delicious as the designer himself. Studied tailoring? Check. Delicate prints in bold shades? Double check. “There is a lot more color than I normally use for fall," the designer explained backstage. “And a lot more texture and layering than usual." Harder and soft elements (leather and chiffon, for example) played together nicely, but it was the wool coats and separates in stop-in-the-tracks shades of crimson, saffron, burgundy, and chartreuse that will have those Madison Avenue types darting right into the boutique on an otherwise routine trip to Barbour.
He's only 23, but there's a reason Oscar de la Renta came to his first show. (It helped that Gordon interned for ODLR, but still.) This Atlanta native—by way of Central Saint Martins—believes in classic, slightly twisted separates for the next generation of ladies. In other words, polished, well-priced basics for twenty and thirtysomethings. For Fall, he played with both evening and statement coats to luminous effect. A long-sleeved marigold evening gown, slit up to there but still quite civilized, was most emblematic of Gordon's particular point of view. But a long silk charmeuse halter in navy is the kind of thing that every young woman will wear at least once a year. If his high-waisted pants (in that perfect, early sixties silhouette that shows of all your best shoes) look as good on a size 8 as they do on those models, then Gordon is really in business.
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