2012 September 24
Milan Spring 2013: Roberto Cavalli, Dsquared², Gianfranco Ferré
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(MILAN) Roberto Cavalli
Ridden with lace and awash with fluttery transparent layering, Cavalli's vision for Spring '13 is sexy, sure, but with a lighter touch than the animal print-flooded, overt sauciness the designer is perhaps best known for. A frothy series of all-white looks, with prettily yoked button-downs and low-slung trou sliced up from waistline to toe, made way for a gelato-hued assortment of pistachio, tangerine, and blush. The pastel parade included tapis rouge-ready frocks as well as suiting that sported full-on profusions of pattern, like a mint-collared number made even more groovy by a pair of mod, round-framed shades. And then, the cutouts came out to play (and there were many peeks of the midriff, clavicle, obliques...): done in dark velvets, spliced hemlines swishing about with each strut, a fitting wrap-up that felt rather seasonless.
Holy gams! Dean and Dan Caten served up a 31-look homage to nineties supes sporting loads of leather, ample bling, and a mostly brief hemline situation (even the ruffled, cheetah print-lined cupcake poof of a finale frock was leggy as can be). Biker caps were iced out to the same degree as chains upon chains upon chains slung across the chest and hips, usually in tandem. Quite costumey and undeniably fun in a campy sort of way, the Caten boys offered up fitted toppers and textured minis in leather; for the girlier persuasions, a prom-like bubblegum strapless dress; and for the pants-averse, there were maillots and itty-bitty boyshorts for days. Certainly sassy, non?
Paris Group and a band of state commissioners may be in a messy legal battle over Gianfranco Ferré, but it was fairly smooth sailing for designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron on the runway. Citing Guy Bourdin’s provocative and sometimes Surrealistic photography, the duo whipped up a mostly black and white assortment, rife with asymmetrical cuts, plunging necklines, and minis to the max. For evening, plan on leg-revealing, architectural gowns nipped in at the waist with your choice of a nonchalantly knotted gold belt or a silver leaf waist cincher.
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