2012 September 21
Milan Spring 2013: Moschino, Etro, Just Cavalli
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Rossella Jardini has been in a time traveling mood of late, referencing the fifties with her Spring '13 menswear collection and the seventies last week with Moschino Cheap and Chic. It was only a matter of time until the house's matriarch brought the swinging sixties back to life. Naturally, there were mini-scaled hemlines, graphic prints, and up-to-there beehives that rivaled those groovy mod helmets. To start the show? A crop of black and white looks—A-line shift dress, cropped jackets, and cigarette pants—edged in contrast piping. Minutes later, a flurry of brightly hued prints took over, from latticework and blooms to jailbird stripes, hearts, and poppy rainbow dots. We'll take one of each, s'il vous plait!
The temps may be on the decline, but Spring has sprung at Etro today. Clue numero uno? Those nifty floral airplane seat cushions. Veronica Etro translated that flower power onto easy breezy dresses (cape included) and casual gaucho suiting with a blooming field of colorful embroidery here and printed daisies there. Similarly, sparkling stripes played a key role in the pattern department as did Etro's signature paisley. That worked best printed on a fluttering kimono top nipped at the waist with an obi-style belt. Etro continued the kimono trend throughout the show, suggesting a new warm weather blazer by way of an elongated, wrapped topper with shoulder cutouts. Who's ready for March?
Deep sea diving, anyone? For Spring, Roberto Cavalli's tropical fish fascination was on display for all to see, including a front row dappled with the likes of Solange Knowles and Azealia Banks. Luckily, the aquatic collection steered clear of any overtly fishy references and instead took a more subtle approach. Think sheer watercolor blouses offset with skintight denim, sequined sweatshirts, a tailored blazer tie-dyed to look like vertebrae, and flouncy, drop-waist dresses with clusters of sparkle that resembled fish scales. Sea legs aside, Cavalli ventured onto land at times to splice his fluttering skirts with leopard or to temper the theme with exquisite blue and white trumeau prints that will no doubt be a top seller at the new Just Cavalli Milano boutique, opening tonight with a live performance by Banks.
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