2012 September 24
Milan Spring 2013: Jil Sander, Emilio Pucci
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(MILAN) Jil Sander
Jil's back at the helm of her eponymous label, to the delight of pared-down perfection seekers everywhere. Spring '13 brings about a fresh-faced, quite clinical M.O., rife with sharply-cut white pieces, nurse-like without being costume-y, and black layers and one-piece frock outfitting worthy of, and quite at home on the city streets. A sprinkling of tomato-hued separates lent verve, while there was something both utilitarian and whimsical about those color-blocked boots (burgundy with midcalf-grazing white banding on the bootie variety; genius curved color-blocking on the taller, black or tan and white iterations; simply white for others). Fine design seems to lie ahead with Sander done with her Uniqlo stint and back in action at her own line.
Sensual in a quiet manner, a mature departure from the visual cacophony of swirls and bright hues chez Pucci is historically known for. Such was the story with Peter Dundas' latest. See: layers of translucent white layering, lined with interesting seaming and rich white-on-white embroidery, followed later by a few noir versions, plus a recurrent dragon-esque embellishment motif channeling Dundas' Vietnam inspiration point. Sheer, wide trousers moved quite beautifully, rendering already-long mods' gams even longer as a result. And that rouge column of a dress? Square-necked, sleek but just fluid enough, and a solid, pattern-free hit.
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