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2012 February 27

Milan Fall 2012: Giorgio Armani, Dsquared², Gianfranco Ferre

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Giorgio Armani Fall 2012 Giorgio Armani Fall 2012
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(MILAN) Giorgio Armani
Rockabilly meets twenties gangster was the scene at Giorgio Armani this morning--albeit without bootlegging, bank robbing, and costumey references winking at Al Capone and the like. "Easy Chic" was what Mr. Armani called his Prohibition era parade and easy chic it was. Here, cocked fedoras and trademark grey suiting lent a menswear bent with elongated blazers, crease-front bermudas, and relaxed trousers, sitting high on the waist and capped short at the ankle. Punchy pink and orange shells and silky crystal-laiden dresses, layered over the knee-grazing shorts, balanced the boyish charm. Similarly with vibrant shrunken jackets festooned with all-over pavé sequins. But it was a pair of one-size-too-big faux fur electric-colored coats, casually slinking off one shoulder, that really had front rowers abuzz post show.  

There's only one way to wake up sleepy eds at a 9:30 a.m. show--stage a high school prom, duh! Dan and Dean Caton did just that, complete with a live band and a glinting disco ball. The graduating class of 2013 was outfitted in sixties-ness at its best from bouffant head to leopard print toe. To wit, form-fitting mohair sweaters, striped capelets, and croc jackets topped slim cropped pants, rolled up denim, and high-waisted pencil skirts splashed with retro motifs. The reworked trucker hats and the occasional ciggy may get you the detention slip, but overall, the collection has been voted "most likely to succeed" by its peers in the 18 to 25-year-old retail market. 

Gianfranco Ferre
Although the Parisian design house has undergone its fair share of drame over the past few seasons, the simple silhouettes and digestible stylings in its Fall offering kept things streamlined and moving full-throttle forward. Slick dark hides, some bunched and thickly layered, were interspersed with icy coats framed by folded dinner napkin collars; a flash of gunmetal frocks with metallic colorblocks of dusky blue and bronze shone over bare games or black opaque tights. Evening looks followed, in calf-grazing or swishy floor length iterations, whether tamped down on one shoulder, sleeved and plunging towards the navel, or regally high-necked. All in all? Ferre was wrought with the wearable, plus a pinch of luxe whimsy thrown in for good measure.

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