2011 February 28
Milan Fall 2011: Giorgio Armani, Just Cavalli
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(MILAN) Giorgio Armani
A femme take on the humble, and often empowering, pair of pants emerged on the runway at Giorgio Armani. Paired with clean layers and sharply-cut jackets, Armani's spate of pants were done in softened, often cuffed, silhouettes and a spectrum of blush tones grounded in dark neutrals like black and grey. Frocks with equally curvaceous flair, also in a palette of muted roses and moody oyster shades, included series of dresses with bubble hems hovering at the ankle atop lacy boots and pointy-toed heels. Three-dimensional plumes of sheer, subtly metallic leaves on stoles and petite pouches were slung across the torsos of a couple models, and occasional antiqued statement baubles or thick, glossy bangles added an understated dose of adornment. A fantastic medley of toppers tied the sophisticated collection together, from hip-grazing furs in apricot and pewter to swingy, lengthier coats sans collars in the same hues, in a thick zigzag texture. Touches of satin completed the pared-down appeal of Armani's womanly--not girly--approach to dressing the modern lady.
Roberto Cavalli went a groovy route for fall, turning out a slightly eccentric, occasionally sexed-up Just Cavalli collection rife with shaggy shearlings and wooly mammoth-inspired goat furs. A plethora of prints were tossed atop one another, including paisleys and a kitschy berry-studded pattern, necklines included the now-ubiquitous '70s bow, along with hits of fitted tweed. Adding to Cavalli's slightly puzzling but definitely interesting aesthetic party on a runway were a few peeks of midriff from under shapely cropped sweaters. Semitransparent dresses were maxi-sized, in both flowy length and blown-up cheetah print. Pops of mocha metallic came courtesy of a monochromatic pantsuit and a funky dress cut in curlicued patches with a swirling asymmetrical neckline, and even in the form of a bib on one ensemble. Models' faces were kept bare save for thick, inky raccoon eyes. All the better to focus on parsing out Cavalli's kooky, colorful bigger picture!
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