2011 February 28
Milan Fall 2011: Giorgio Armani, Just Cavalli
FirstView View Gallery
(MILAN) Giorgio Armani
A femme take on the humble, and often empowering, pair of pants emerged on the runway at Giorgio Armani. Paired with clean layers and sharply-cut jackets, Armani's spate of pants were done in softened, often cuffed, silhouettes and a spectrum of blush tones grounded in dark neutrals like black and grey. Frocks with equally curvaceous flair, also in a palette of muted roses and moody oyster shades, included series of dresses with bubble hems hovering at the ankle atop lacy boots and pointy-toed heels. Three-dimensional plumes of sheer, subtly metallic leaves on stoles and petite pouches were slung across the torsos of a couple models, and occasional antiqued statement baubles or thick, glossy bangles added an understated dose of adornment. A fantastic medley of toppers tied the sophisticated collection together, from hip-grazing furs in apricot and pewter to swingy, lengthier coats sans collars in the same hues, in a thick zigzag texture. Touches of satin completed the pared-down appeal of Armani's womanly--not girly--approach to dressing the modern lady.
Roberto Cavalli went a groovy route for fall, turning out a slightly eccentric, occasionally sexed-up Just Cavalli collection rife with shaggy shearlings and wooly mammoth-inspired goat furs. A plethora of prints were tossed atop one another, including paisleys and a kitschy berry-studded pattern, necklines included the now-ubiquitous '70s bow, along with hits of fitted tweed. Adding to Cavalli's slightly puzzling but definitely interesting aesthetic party on a runway were a few peeks of midriff from under shapely cropped sweaters. Semitransparent dresses were maxi-sized, in both flowy length and blown-up cheetah print. Pops of mocha metallic came courtesy of a monochromatic pantsuit and a funky dress cut in curlicued patches with a swirling asymmetrical neckline, and even in the form of a bib on one ensemble. Models' faces were kept bare save for thick, inky raccoon eyes. All the better to focus on parsing out Cavalli's kooky, colorful bigger picture!
Want to stay chez Karl Lagerfeld? The designer has signed on to create a signature hotel in Macau, China which will welcome guests come 2017. Lagerfeld's major hospitality endeavor...
Phoebe Arnold, formerly fashion director at Ponystep, has been named senior editor at LOVE...David Perel, formerly president at Next Act Media, has been named editorial director at...
Big shuffles at Bauer Publishing: Dan Wakeford is out as EIC of In Touch and Life & Style, 12 years after joining the European mag company's stateside HQ. David Perel has been named...