2012 February 21
London Fall 2012: Christopher Kane, Erdem, Burberry
(NEW YORK) Christopher Kane
What does it mean when a designer known for neons, who did a particularly light take on Spring, goes dark? Simply that he's getting more interesting. Such was the case chez Kane, where the 29-year-old wunderkind has obviously taken a lesson or two from his side gig at Versace. Sex sells, but in fashion, so does intrigue. The show began with an intriguing leather statement: pinstriped pieces were slouchy and tossed-on. And then, the color statement: expect shades of sapphire to be huge for Fall, because Kane showed it in moiré in the majority of looks, trimmed fiercely in black. Crimson was another creepy motif, apparent in the same ultra-lean silhouettes that have become a CK signature for the next-generation CK. The designer's unusual influence was Al Pacino's film Cruiser, an early-eighties thriller about a gay serial killer, but the overall effect was sinister, in a good way.
Another noteworthy outing—and another parade of purple—from one of London's top talents. Erdem Moralioglu chose the White Cube gallery space as a venue for his Fall 2012 collection, and the modern (and po-mo) sentiment was apt. For those who think this designer is just about florals, take a look at that rubber—embroidered and used as lace-like patches on pristine suiting and bright, tweed-trimed sheaths, it signaled the serious strides this designer makes each season. A painterly palette of royal blue, rouge, yellow, and fuschia worked well in the abstracted prints and as underpinnings to the romantic lacework.
Christopher Bailey's status as London's preeminent fashion rainmaker is assured, despite a hip-centric story in his Fall collection that will appeal mostly to those who want to add curves. The collection was called "Town and Field," and the women's look was about a smart coat, a cinched waist, a touch of frill (bow belt, anyone?), and a cropped jacket. The peplum detail we've been seeing on runways far and wide shows no signs of slowing, but Bailey's 1940s-inspired take was a fresh departure, and a nod to the "town" element of the collection. Same goes for a satin skirt shape with a dramatic diagonal ruffle down the front. The Field, of course, comes courtesy of Bailey's spot-on outerwear and jackets. The show ended poignantly with a simulated indoors rainstorm. The models popped open their umbrellas...but did they really need them? Burberry, it seems, is almost impermeable.
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