2011 February 21
London Fall 2011: Matthew Williamson, Temperley London, Osman
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(LONDON) Matthew Williamson
London's reigning maestro of prints and brights turned his attentions to blanket dressing for Fall. Inspired by the Russian artist Francisco Infante-Arana, the collection incorporated a mishmash of textures, from knits to silks to even one pair of red leather motorcycle pants. Palette-wise, Williamson played with the same fuschia and red combination that we've seen at nearly every show since Prabal Gurung. The minidresses, in bright patterns and paired with same-length jackets, best captured Williamson's sexy sensibilities. A focus on fur—degrade Mongolian lamb toppers, maribou feathered shifts, and fox trim abounding on jackets—amplified this designer's luxe sensibilities.
To toast her brand's 10th anniversary, Alice Temperley moved her New York presentation back to her native London—and staged a full-fledged runway show in the atrium of the British Museum. The clothes were worthy of the spectacle. Temperley is best known for her romantic side, and her Fall collection did indulge that temperment (especially in the kind of long-sleeved, gauzy white dress that makes retailers swoon), but ultimately, this collection was not strictly for nice girls. A focus on evening resulted in some drop-dead satin floor-grazers and fierce sculpted cocktail gowns in a blazing shade of red. Embroidered net gowns in black and white are the sort of things Temperley does best, but they were juxtaposed alongside enough other offerings to prove her versatility. Can't wait to see what the next decade will bring.
Osman Yousefzada's brand of minimalism feels particularly palate-cleansing in London, and his silhouettes grow more refined by the season. A master of fit, Yousefzada developed wide-leg trousers for Fall, which worked beautifully in an all-white ensemble paired with a loose trench and a black tunic with tails. His color palette—fuschia, sky blue, lime, and a wide assortment of citrus—wasn't quite as digestible. As he experiments with textures like boucle and leather, the combinations can come off a bit heavy-handed, but the daywear is rife with possibilities.
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