Daily Front Row

2010 January 27

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2010

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Gaultier Haute Couture, Spring 2010
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(PARIS) Jean Paul Gaultier
Avatar, Mexico, and the Aztecs were jumping-off points for Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring 2010 couture collection, resulting in something like eco-warriors in serapes. Tricky to fathom? Perhaps--but then Gaultier has never been limited by imagination. Optical prints lent the sci-fi touches, while lace, feathers, and fringe provided the Latin flair, as did oversized sombrero-esque hats. Embellishment was laid on thick; Magdalena's neck-to-ankle beaded dress was a technical feat, as were meticulously basketwoven looks (from a pristine white tailored jacket to skirts with hems of carwash fringe). It was busy, yes, with different references in every look, but a sailor-buttoned pantsuit was pure Gaultier, and a sculpted, pale blue lace creation was pure magic. When Karlie Kloss closed the show in a fully corseted jacket and hoop skirt overlaid in what looked like palm fronds, Gaultier's true mastery of tailoring shone through--and even if the collection was deemed theme-y or over-the-top, the sole French couturier reminded show-goers of the thrill of couture.