Daily Front Row

2012 February 12

Fall 2012: VPL, Christian Siriano, Herve Leger, Sally Lapointe

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VPL by Victoria Bartlett Fall 2012
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(NEW YORK) VPL
 Two shows in one? It's always swell when someone switches it up, so merci to Victoria Bartlett for doing just that. The first half of the show was the dressier VPL lass who buys the line for draped jersey knit dresses in a smorgasbord of taupe, black, and gray. Always the neoprene queen, Bartlett showed shin guards (or are they shin warmers?) that almost fooled the eye, masquerading at first glance as patches on nude pants. If you’re in the market for outerwear, there was a particularly cool kid leather trench overcoat in a deep green that borderlined on black. The silk, especially in a brown jumpsuit, was all washed and relaxed. A dash of printed silk screen surfaced on skirts, too. Part deux of the show, however, played more to Bartlett’s strengths and showed some fun theatricality that the NY shows have been lacking. Knit jumpsuits in teensy proportions had the crowd cooing, as the knits (padded hip cushions! Circle hoops a la Marie Antoinette!) filed out, accented with metallic jersey underlays and cutouts. Twice the fun! 

Christian Siriano
The NY Times recently featured this former Project Runway contestant in a feature about his real role in the industry: he sells, but he don't get no respect. So, all eyes were all on Siriano for Fall 2012. He paid homage to (get this) Fay Wray and vampire bats for a darker collection that included a lot of black. Props should be given where they're deserved: Siriano is growing up! His muse, Mena Suvari, sat front row and stood at the end, along with a crowd that included Gabourey Sidibe and Leigh Lezark. Don't count this boy out yet. Remember: The customer is always right, and after this collection, his devotees are going to be happier than ever. 

Herve Leger
There’s enough leather harnesses and fur to last for days in the latest Leger get-ups. Of course, since it's multi mogul genius Max Azria behind it, the potentially scary combos looked downright smoking hot. The first look included all of the above, plus some serious high heeled boots with leather shin guards (just kidding!) fastened to the front. Though Herve Leger might be known as a Kardashian go-to for extreme tightness, the collection balances body conscious with fit and flared. Case in point: A look with black lattice cut-outs and long sleeves on the top got paired to a pleated skirt with laods of movement on the bottom. There were many looks in nudes accented with brown leather hip harnesses. The attention to detail was pretty extraordinary in both the intricacy of the knit dresses and the various metallic paneling and strategically placed cut-outs to highlight the décolletage. Deeper into the collection Azria wowed guests with an impossible-to-ignore combo of skinny leather pants and long-sleeved top sporting lengthy fringe. It was all dominatrix in the best way possible.

Sally LaPointe 
This season, Sally LaPointe was a little less serious (those skull caps from spring were severe) and instead channeled sexier, feminine vibe that was anything but girly. The first look certainly put this vibe out in the open: an all-white ensemble that was a pony-hair cape that looked positively strokable. Perhaps to keep the focus on cut not color, many of the looks were monochromatic, like long, light navy silk trousers topped with a wool funnel neck coat of the same shade. LaPointe knows how to work her extremes, though, and when she showed short minidresses with crescent moon cutouts at the abs, boy were they short. There was a brief Studio 54 moment with an absolutely stunning, full-out gold ensemble of sequined pants and top that somehow (almost) passed as a one-piece. The collection seemed to mature, too, with the final looks in a bold black lace, proving LaPointe can work with embellishment with ease, fashioning the material into a quasi jumpsuit (this was a confusing look) but also gorgeous long gown and minidress. To ground things the shoes were collaboration with Alejandro Ingelmo featuring high (really high) wedged booties. Note: the black pony hair ones are on our wish list.