Daily Front Row

2008 February 13

Marios Schwab - London Fall 2008

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Marios Schwab Fall 2008
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(LONDON) Roll Call: Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, Hilary Alexander, Michael Roberts

Chic Report: The fall silhouette has arrived, courtesy of Marios Schwab. A long and lean redux, it was all about a second skin, except skirted--a femmed-up catsuit in disguise. "The idea was to work around the body, to frame it," he said backstage. Stretch dresses were defaced with clumsy slits, and printed tufts of fabric or denim showed themselves accordingly. Wallpaper prints were a theme--Schawb cited Charlotte Perkins Gilman's haunting Victorian novella The Yellow Wallpaper as a reference point--but chipper florals were nowhere to be found. Instead, Schwab collaborated with artist Tom Gallant, and the results were textured, painterly, and just the slightest bit subversive. Wearable? Who cares.