2009 December 9
(NEW YORK) J.Mendel
Gilles Mendel's take on Pre-Fall incorporated a few reversible minks, but the designer's increased focus on daywear made an equally strong statement. Suiting was key, including a black wool style with a fox collar. A pieced-together navy and black jacket nodded to Mendel's edgier side; ditto with a fur bolero jacket with detachable leather sleeves. For evening, draped chiffon reigned supreme, most memorably in a crimson gown with a transparent back. But it was a long-sleeved black micropleated silk gown with a ruffle around the waist that looked most modern and signified how this brand intends to evolve.
In his new 9,000 square-foot studio, Jason Wu showed a pre-fall collection that tackled his idea of uniforms. From trim military jackets, paired with micropleated, printed chiffon skirts and tie blouses with slightly contrasting prints. A faintly metallic dress, finished with one crucial tuck at the waist, was made of intricately feathered leather. Lightweight tweed sheaths were finished with paper-thin leather panels extending only from the collarbone to the upper ribcage. Budget-friendly tencel tees mingled nicely with cotton shirtdresses and slim little skirts--Wu's take on basics. But it was a miniskirt made of tulle-covered bended sequins, arranged in a most particular way, that offered the bigges wow factor. This designer simply gets more exciting by the season.
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