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2009 December 8

Runway Reviews

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Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2010 Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2010
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(NEW YORK) "It all starts with the tango dancers," explained Carolina Herrera of her pre-fall collection. "I love this figure--it's very seductive." Indeed, a print of revellers drawn from a 1920s illustration kicked off the looks and generated plenty of interest right from the start. The first frock incorporated the idea with embroidered tulle and crepe de chine; in other pieces, the print appeared in tiny bits of embellishment and underneath shards of plexi. Other standout prints include a brush-stroke and a ribbon band motif, which was most memorable in an embroidered organza cocktail dress.

The palette was energetic in a typically Herrera fashion--dandelion yellow, lava red, and directoire blue. But the mulberry shade, especially in a stretch wool crepe 1940s-era gown decked out with buttons, a tiny belt and plenty of drama, is destined to make maximum impact on the sales floor. One particular bolt of double face duchess satin featured wide stripes of indigo, black, celadon, lava and mulberry. Depending on how it was cut, it was used as a dramatically-sleeved jacket that used just a few hues or a breathtaking gown, glamorously draped and tucked to include them all.

For day, Herrera included double face tweed pieces, such as day dresses and long, lean jackets in chocolate and gold, that were so lightweight that upon careful inspection, the fabric was transparent. Florals made a few cameos, namely in an organza fils coupe gown endowed with open-pleat ruffles and a stunning jacquard that featured a graphic dot pattern. A cheeky elephant print, done up in red, white, and blue, made for a great dress and a few separates destined for summer events far beyond July 4th in Newport, Nantucket and the like. All told, Carolina Herrera's pre-fall offered plenty of reasons to head to the stores in April--and keep returning in May, June, July...




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