News & Scoops

2009 October 26

Weekend Walk-Through: Opening Ceremony

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Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Humberto Leon and Carol Lim
Patrick McMullan
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(NEW YORK) Opening Ceremony's ubiquitous and ever-glowing press presence could make even Bloomingdale's jealous. For one little store, the world certainly can obsess. This relatively-small multibrand boîte on Howard Street owned by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon began as a gallery, showcasing the fashion of one particular country at a time--hence the Olympically-themed name--but a weekend walk-through reveals a new focus on heritage brands. Colorful limited-edition Keds vie for nostalgia bucks with $160 Bass pennyloafers (with colors chosen by Chloe Sevigny, who also designs a contemporary line for the store). The windows are filled with faux-fur ready-to-wear "inspired" by Where the Wild Things Are. The jackets: Why not? The micro-minis: Why?

Your grandmother's favorite wool source, Pendleton, has also done a special collection for OC, and while $600-ish blanket bombers in Native American prints might prove a bit too trendy for the recession-plagued shopper, perhaps you're more inclined for a poncho? At any rate, the selection is big. Surefire best-sellers came via a wide selection of Comme des Garçons wallets and yes, custom Rodarte tees decorated with Kurt Cobain's likeness and a few buttons--for under $100, even.

Betsey Johnson archive pieces--while exciting in concept--just looked plain vintage on the rack, as those leotard styles won't have much traction outside of the clubs. But this store is all about custom fun, and accordingly, it's easy to become overexcited by a whiff of nostalgia.

The upstairs gallery was all about looking forward. Racks were crammed with rarely-found-in-New-York wares from the likes of Hussein Chalayan and Meadham Kirchoff. The former had a black bomber jacket that puts that ubiquitous Balenciaga one to shame. But speaking of, why is all the best stuff so relatively hidden? Laser-cut leather leggings from Rodarte were folded on a low shelf and almost missed entirely--too bad, especially since The Daily can't recall another stores in New York that dared to buy them. The pricey deconstructed knits (available at Barneys, Bergdorf, et cetera) were easier to spot.

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