2009 October 2
(PARIS) Nina Ricci
Peter Copping's first runway effort for Nina Ricci was, by and large, an exploration of the concept of pretty, and it managed to translate well to the heavily-curated audience. It's the house's underlying sentiment, one that has been both indulged and stretched to its limits in recent seasons. Copping's work, which reflected all those years spent at Louis Vuitton, catered to a modern sense of girlishness, complete with bloomers and ruffles and lace (oh my). Layered knits were juxtaposed with ultra-ruffled frocks, giving a girl things to wear for both work and play--provided she has the budget. With peekaboo lingerie and borderline-clumsy footwear, the collection wasn't excessively literal, although the last smattering of lace gowns did offer the red carpet-bound something to clamor for.
Attention, Paris--another relaunch with legs. Matteo Marzotto and Rodolfo Paglialunga were both on hand at the Musée de l'Homme to unveil the first complete collection for Vionnet since Matteo Marzotto purchased it along with Gianni Castiglioni in February 2009. (A small resort collection was shown in July). Rodolfo Paglialunga cleverly interpreted the house's legendary draping technique by piecing together square and rectangular pieces of fabric, resulting in a flock of dresses that appear to simultaneously open and close. (Belt holes both render these looks versatile and prevent the former from happening at random). Nude silks and colorblocked patterns of slate, crimson and black played against dressier beaded numbers and separates jazzed-up with 2-mm microsequins. Two archival Vionnet prints--one floral, one checked--were incorporated into several dresses, shorts, and even shoes. Accessories were particularly strong, namely heels that featured winding strips of the aforementioned fabrics that are able to be tied as mules, lace-ups...any which way, really. Bejeweled rhinestone brooches, inspired by seashells and made of wrapped gold cord were just as directional; here's hoping that they are as well-priced as this line intends on being. A venerable brand without an ounce of stuffiness, Vionnet is back--and bolder than ever.
Lauren Bacall, film noir...it's hard to go wrong. After a high-concept Fall collection, John Galliano went straight for the jugular with a stunning display on femme glamour that expounded on concepts like slip dressing and underwear-as-outerwear seen at his July couture show. It all began with a lamé trench, followed by a shorter khaki twill one, and belted double-breasted jackets with exaggerated hips and shoulders in shades of nude, then gray, then black. A micropleated black lace dress over a fuschia slip best embodied that sexiness, while a pale blue screen-goddess gown offered the kind of glamour that Marion Cotillard should reserve tout de suite.
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