2009 September 23
(LONDON) Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Bailey made a triumphant return to the London catwalks Tuesday evening with a star-studded crowd and star-worthy clothing. His show, at the Chelsea College of Art, nodded to Burberry’s traditions with lots of belted trenches, but Bailey modernised them with pastels and chic details like a puffed sleeve. We loved his series of draped chiffon tops and dresses (very Gwyneth Paltrow, who sat admiring them in the front row) and especially the mini silk dresses with cap-sleeves in mint green, sky blue and baby pink hues. The finale of sparkling gold and silver coats and dresses made the message crystal clear: Burberry is now a hip label for the 18-25 set. The show ended with silver glitter falling from the lights onto the runway: the perfect LFW finale. Front-rowers like Emma Watson, Mary Kate Olsen, Dev Patel and Freida Pinto, Liv Tyler and Victoria Beckham did their best to distract from the clothing and turn the show into a celebrity stalking opportunity.
Pringle of Scotland
Pringle has come a long way from staid golf jumpers. The Scottish label returned to LFW this year with a new ambassador (Tilda Swinton, who sported a blazer and shirt from the men’ collection for the event) and even an edgy film featuring some of their key new looks directed by Ryan McGinley and starring Swinton running through the Scottish highlands in Pringle gowns (which suggests the clothing is as functional as it is fashionable). The collection featured lots of luxurious chunky knits in cashmere in a minimal palette, sticking to white, grey, beige and yellow. We liked the short ruffle skirts and fine-knit dresses on display.
Basso & Brooke
The duo behind Basso & Brooke have made such a name for themselves as print specialists that even when they launched their L’Oreal lipstick this summer, part of its main attraction was the printed packaging designed by them. So it comes as no surprise that once again they delivered bold, electric colors and prints (inspired by Jeff Koons), but also proved that they can cut a dress as they moved away from color and offered up LBDs and black and white prints. “This season we were going for very fluid looks, peeping parts of the body so that it follows the curves and isn’t just a netting dress,” Christopher Brooke explained. “This season was about strict tailoring, cropped jackets and a strong shoulder – but not in a silly way.”
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