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2009 September 21

Runway Reviews

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Issa Spring 2010 Issa Spring 2010
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(LONDON) Issa
Naomi alert! The supermodel showed up on the runway of Daniella Helayel’s Issa collection, Tropical Storm, opening and closing the show to the audience’s whoops and cheers and even strutting down the catwalk in a sequined bathing suit. Issa clothes are always beautiful, feminine and fun – and so is the front-row crowd that supports her. This season it included Peaches Geldof (sister Pixie had modeled in Westwood earlier that day), Daisy Lowe (who also strolled down the Westwood runway, with the best of accessories, a tiny pooch, in her arms), Laura Bailey, Tinsley Mortimer, Andrea Dellal (mother of Alice and Charlotte) and a pregnant Jourdan Dunn. The show opened with a bright palette of tropical greens, oranges, and yellows, which showed up on sequined trousers and dresses. Silk jersey is still the fabric du jour, and it looked particularly beautiful on sweeping one-armed dresses that looked amazing on the body and had a kind of St. Tropez glamour. Gorgeous green eyeshadow (courtesy of Pat McGrath) applied thickly to the upper lids complemented the clothes perfectly.

Jasmine Di Milo
Di Milo’s presentation for S/S, “Say It With Your Mouth Shut”, featured a screening of her collaboration with cult filmmaker Terry Gross – the film looked like a very fashionable vampire flick, and it was nice to see the Twilight/True Blood influence make its way to London. Models emerged in skintight corsets and fitted leather dresses, which gave way to more elaborate chiffon numbers and our personal favourite, simple cocktail dresses with asymmetrical straps. A series of stepping stones lay in the middle of the room and models would climb and descend them as part of the presentation, allowing the audience to see the looks from every imaginable angle. The show ended with a triptych of a model in white, one in red and one in black.

Ashish
Ashish is one designer who belongs at LFW, because he is all about fun and risks and making people smile. His invites were postcards from different places in the world, and the collection was an homage to major international destinations like New York, Paris, Hawaii and Italy. Ashish’s message came across in sequinned sweats, T-shirts and dresses emblazoned with cult images: the Mona Lisa, the New York skyline, the Eiffel Tower. He also created a capsule collection inspired by Nike with the Nike logo and mottos like “Just Do It” written across the chest. His collection was beautifully made, and honestly made the idea of head-to-toe sequins not only palatable, but the number one thing one our wish lists.

PPQ
Amy Molyneux and Percy Parker’s PPQ show drew the usual suspects (the Peaches and Alexa crowd), and exclusively featured black models. We liked the breezy cocktail dresses with oversized ruffle sleeves and the cute beachwear on offer, but we especially enjoyed previewing the new PPQ for Adidas collection, which features the Adidas logo redefined for a sweater dress and hits the right mix of casual and chic. Front-rowers had massive goodie bags shaped like cat’s faces (complete with sticking-out ears) to lug home with them post-show. Unfortunately, those Adidas items weren’t in there, but a sexy pair of Figleaves undies was.




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