2009 September 17
(NEW YORK) Oscar de la Renta
“It doesn’t get any easier,” said Oscar de la Renta after the first of two showings of his spring collection. “As you get older you always question yourself and whether you’re doing the right thing or not. “ Perhaps that intellectual drive makes the legend one of the best then, now, and for however long he chooses to stay on top. Zac Posen sat front row just to see the craftsmanship of dresses first hand and not online--and for a good reason. The house put out a carnival of breathtaking embroidered looks that accented the jackets and impressive gold dresses. There were simpler options as well, like soft silk tops, peasant skirts, and, gaucho-trousers, all presented with a masterful virtuosity and grace.
“I just want to wear one these dresses somewhere,” exclaimed Becki Newton at the Marchesa presentation. “Even if it’s for a trip to the grocery store for five minutes. I want to put one on now!” Georgina Chapman elicited such strong reactions from nearly every woman who took in the show yesterday. She once again seduced her audience with astounding couture-esque tulle gowns, phenomenal jackets, and origami-inspired black and white show-stoppers. “Madame Butterfly was the foundation in this collection,” explained Chapman. “It’s all about the beautiful overtones, fragility of life, sensuality of love, and relationships.” And timeless red carpet moments.
For her first ever New York showing, Kimberly Ovitz showcased 17 intelligently edited looks, part of the collection that’s destined to wind up in the closets of the chicest girls on the both coasts. “I just wanted to come up with handful looks that really reflect the unfortunate climate that we’re in,” said the designer. “I want to encourage hope with my own kind of inspirations, like Frank Gehry’s minimalist work.” The architect’s work was reflected in lovely and light silver leather jackets and attractive bodysuit. The showing was full of smart simplicities and obvious long-term potential. Surprise guest at the presentation Martin Scorsese would surely agree.
Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2010 collection offered a resplendent hope for the future this afternoon. The designer unpacked the notion of “hard times,” focusing on the diligence and integrity of the farmers, cowboys, and pioneer housewives. Loose denim overalls, denim western jackets and daisy cotton dresses were at once finely detailed, soft, elegant and sensibly comfortable. Bringing the prairie to the runway, the pieces elevated the working class attire, beautifying a sector that is often dismissed, especially in the fashion world. As the collection progressed, silk and chiffon took the place of cotton in the laborer’s wardrobe, again underscoring the sophistication and classic beauty of those who literally lend their hand to ameliorate American during grim economic times.
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