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2009 September 17

Runway Reviews

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Toni Maticevski Spring 2010 Toni Maticevski Spring 2010
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(NEW YORK) Christian Cota
“I was imagining this woman, so beautiful that she’s almost fragile surrounded by all the hardness,” said Christian Cota of his collection. “I really felt like this was the moment to expand my horizons.” The rising designer opted not to show just yet, as he’s still developing his brand identity and long-term business plan. Though this collection is a lot more diverse and perhaps less cohesive than his previous efforts, it is still very much effective and exciting. Cota took the bloom theme to heart with an outing that showcased everything from unmatched print dresses to admirable day-to-day pieces to an eye-popping bathing suit. The young designer clearly has a wonderful intuition with proportions and, more importantly, inevitable consumer appeal.

Hervé Léger
“She’s sexier, younger and funnier than ever,“ imagined Max Azria backstage while painting his Spring Hervé Léger woman. “And she’s raw!” The house actually went the opposite route of their last collection by loosening the dresses and splattering in artisan details and crochet in the process. There were foils, embroideries, and lots of braiding that kept up the chic and strong hippie spirit.  Azria clan obviously envisions a lot more than a bandage beauty salon for this brand, and this collection is a strong advance towards their long-term cause.

Designed to brighten your style, your spirits, your life,” wasn’t Donna Karan’s newest catchphrase for her Urban Zen Center. It was in fact part of the mission statement of the DKNY show. And while they served freshly squeezed juices at her meditation heaven next door, all the best color was popping on this young, and inspired runway. The collection had a refreshing assortment of clean blanks and rose tones, and a welcome array of sparkle. In fact, it had as much bling as the last Balmain runway. There was a definite sense of optimism, flirtatiousness, and clever glamour in this sure to be very successful effort.

Toni Maticevski
In May, a potential Oscar nominee Abbie Cornish wore fellow Aussie Toni Maticevski’s dress to Cannes and practically won the sartorial derby at the festival. That’s, of course, this designer at his very best: making things that are truly organically artistic, emotional, and unforgettable. This current collection had its moments of soft couture brilliance and obvious over thought moments. “It all about reversal,” the young designer explained. “It’s about beautiful things dying. It’s kind of a reflective, melancholy response to the times.” While his vision is admirable, it worked better on a beautiful crepe blouses, metallic tops, and great skirts then on more over-styled and moody, noir ensembles. His grandiose ball gowns were a joy to watch and he clearly needs time to learn who do edit his great talent and not how to develop it.



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