2009 September 17
(NEW YORK) Peter Som
Rumors have been flying that Peter Som might take a the creative director post at Tommy Hilfiger; if his spring collection is any sign, that might be a very smart move for the Tommy camp. Som’s an all-American designer, all right, but his fun, bright spring point of view indicated that he might add a welcome breath of fresh air to the house of Hilfiger. A pale yellow print faille shift dress got a twist – literally – with knotted twists of fabric across the front. Stripes, dots, leopards and abstract florals came together in tweeds and jaquards (often with a sparkling metallic touch) for a young, cheerful spring collection.
"This whole collection came within the modernization of fabrics,” explained Gilles Mendel of his spring effort. “It was all about layering, transparencies, and making clothes cross-cultural. It’s very ethereal.” And very desirable. The designer’s superbly edited spring collection showcased his grasp for sculpture and beautiful manipulation. His 22 looks were well varied in length and constructed in a delicately sunny palette. His double-face satin dresses were especially noteworthy.
“We’ve got everything in here,” announced Michael Bastian after his show with a smile. “Bathing suits to tuxedoes!” The designer wasn’t kidding. His admirable and very complete Latin-themed warm collection showcased his depth and multitude of strengths. Bastian’s army of male supermodels happily walked down in everything from sleek bathing suits to warp cardigans to impressive lined tuxedoes. Models seemed superbly comfortable and content in the samples--as will many men who’ll covet this basket of Bastian’s unmistakable talent.
After a very strong Fall collection, Donna Karan is intending to stay in her sparkling comfort zone, that tends to play up to timeless silhouettes rather than weekly trend reports. She delivered he goods with soft double layered skirts, airy wrap dresses, canvas jackets, and fire coral envelope dresses. There was a lightness and instinctual prowess in this collection that played up to all of Karan’s usual hits with very few miscues.
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