2009 September 15
(NEW YORK) ERIN FETHERSTON
“This is the most womanly and sexy collection that I’ve done to date,” said Erin Fetherston before her spring show. Plunging necks, cinched waists and a neutral palate proved that the designer is moving toward maturity, but she maintained her signature romantic aesthetic with a plethora of bows, lace and ruffles. Strong, constructed shoulders, an emerging theme this season, also brought a sense of sophistication and a series of wrap dresses were elegant evening options.
Prints came into play with purple cherry-blossom chiffons and sequined leopard spots and, as promised, there was a slew of sexy black and navy silk dresses that fell somewhere between cocktail and bedroom attire. Overall, the collection was an interesting reflection of the designer’s serious side.
Jeremy Laing’s spring collection was the definition of avant-garde. The designer combined texture, print and soft yet structured forms to create unexpected, artful looks. There were taupe dresses covered in a graph-like print, jagged geometric color blocking that created a prism effect and leggings cut into quadrants with clean black lines. ”We tried to work in as many textures and colors as possible while still being really harmonious and beautiful,” said Laing.
Most appealing were rows of white leather tiling that ran in diagonals on a rough white and grey dress and wrapped around all sides of a spliced seafoam tunic. While many looks were more conceptual than wearable, a black and granite dress topped with an angular vest was an industrial evening option and an oversized white and grey blazer, along with a delicate linen overcoat will certainly get picked up by style-savvy customers.
ALICE + OLIVIA
It was all about la femme francaise at Alice+Olivia. For starters, the presentation was shown against three painted French backdrops, including Paris streets, bridges and Le Tour Eiffel. The Plasticines, a rowdy girl band from The City Of Lights played for guests and of course, each look oozed that je-ne-sais-qoi that everyone craves but only French girls can master. “I wanted to take a rocker feel and give it a softness and to me, Paris has that,” said designer Stacy Bendet. The collection contained a number of standout looks: a soft nude dress draped with crystals was the choice look for evening. Fluttering white dresses and skirts were topped with rough leather jackets in black and tan and a draped violet tulip skirt paired topped with a lilac top called to mind Paris in the spring.
Inspired by the cult 60’s classic TV show, "The Prisoner," Karen Walker’s spring collection was a bit of a trip, but in the best way possible. According to Walker, the show tells the tale of a lovely island getaway that ends up being a prison for retired spies. “It’s kind of 60’s psychedelic, kind of crazy.” And it was there that the collection ran parallel. The show began with a prepster-esque navy sailor blazer, seagull-printed pants and deck shoes that would have been perfect for a yachting expedition off the coast of Martha’s Vineyard, but something about Look 1’s ultra-tall yellow bucket hat hinted that the collection would stray from country club chic. Navy and white striping remained a strong theme, but exaggerated ruffles, frilled blouses, and best of all, a flouncy red, blue and white polka dot parachute dress worn over a nautically striped “play suit,” brought the collection to a whole new level. Wearable, playful and entirely intoxicating, Walker’s girly looks are sure to induce chic.
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