2009 September 15
(NEW YORK) CARLOS MIELE
It was a battle of beach versus city for Carlos Miele, but for this Brazilian designer, the shore won easily. Miele’s personal photos of the beach and city in Rio de Janeiro were translated into abstract prints; the former, a calmer blue-green, and the latter a more colorful red and yellow-based print. The dress ruled the runway, whether in micro-mini degrades like the opener sported by Abbey Lee or in the longer draped, wrapped and ruched silk chiffon numbers that closed the show—but Miele’s topical wool pants were some of the more successful of the pleated pegged versions now ubiquitous on the runways.
Review: Christophe Decarnin’s Balmainia is not slowing down, if Jill Stuart’s spring collection was any indication. Instead of her usual brand of girly dresses, we got rock-star sexy: studs, sparkles, chain mail, and dresses so micro-mini that many a front row-er got an eyeful. Futuristic, armor-esque looks like colorblock leggings and cut-out micro-dresses had a superhero effect, unfortunately, the result was more costume, less chic. Sparkly harem pants were overkill, as was a pink zebra one-shoulder backless mini. Bring our Jill back!
His new casual collection, Richard Chai Love, was a welcome sight for front row retailers:fluid and utterly modern attitude pieces that wil sell well at their logical price point. It's hard to see the connectio to what we're likely to witness in Milan or PAris-but it was a timely move, and a brave one.
“After people see my collection, I want them to desire, covet and…save up! Save up for these pieces, people!” suggested Zac Posen after his show, which was a celebration of vivacity. Neon raincoats protected structured and streamlined shifts, creating a futuristic flight attendant look. Belted waists and full skirts in bright sherbet reinvented the notion of the demure, classic ballerina. A parade of mini skirts, form-fitting frocks and backless confections were always playful, never vulgar. Posen, once again, served as a reminder that fashion should always be a thrill ride.
Yesterday, Francisco Costa debuted a softer side for Pre-Fall on his runway. Costa has been the only designer thus far to actually present a runway show for the typically buyer oriented...
The New York Fashion Week schedule is losing Yohji Yamamoto from the mix, as the designer will be showing his Y-3 collection in Paris starting in January. The coed collection, which...
Nicoletta Santoro, currently a stylist and international fashion director-at-large at Vogue China, has been named creative director-at-large at Town & Country...David DeRobbio, formerly...