News & Scoops

2009 September 15

Runway Reviews

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Carlos Miele Spring 2010 Carlos Miele Spring 2010
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It was a battle of beach versus city for Carlos Miele, but for this Brazilian designer, the shore won easily. Miele’s personal photos of the beach and city in Rio de Janeiro were translated into abstract prints; the former, a calmer blue-green, and the latter a more colorful red and yellow-based print. The dress ruled the runway, whether in micro-mini degrades like the opener sported by Abbey Lee or in the longer draped, wrapped and ruched silk chiffon numbers that closed the show—but Miele’s topical wool pants were some of the more successful of the pleated pegged versions now ubiquitous on the runways.

JILL Stuart
Review: Christophe Decarnin’s Balmainia is not slowing down, if Jill Stuart’s spring collection was any indication. Instead of her usual brand of girly dresses, we got rock-star sexy: studs, sparkles, chain mail, and dresses so micro-mini that many a front row-er got an eyeful. Futuristic, armor-esque looks like colorblock leggings and cut-out micro-dresses had a superhero effect, unfortunately, the result was more costume, less chic. Sparkly harem pants were overkill, as was a pink zebra one-shoulder backless mini. Bring our Jill back!

His new casual collection, Richard Chai Love, was a welcome sight for front row retailers:fluid and utterly modern attitude pieces that wil sell well at their logical price point. It's hard to see the connectio to what we're likely to witness in Milan or PAris-but it was a timely move, and a brave one.

“After people see my collection, I want them to desire, covet and…save up! Save up for these pieces, people!” suggested Zac Posen after his show, which was a celebration of vivacity. Neon raincoats protected structured and streamlined shifts, creating a futuristic flight attendant look. Belted waists and full skirts in bright sherbet reinvented the notion of the demure, classic ballerina. A parade of mini skirts, form-fitting frocks and backless confections were always playful, never vulgar. Posen, once again, served as a reminder that fashion should always be a thrill ride.

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