2009 September 14
(NEW YORK) ARAKS
Master of effortless elegance, Araks Yeramyan’s spring collection is as easy as it is thoughtfully detailed. While not apparent at the outset, upon a closer glance it is clear that each piece is “shifted” in some way, whether it is heavy fabric on one side of a dress or an uneven lapel. French clowns were the inspiration for the designer’s previous collection, and this time Yeramyan found a muse in sculptor Rachel Feinstein. The presentation was held in a library, a fittingly calm and relaxed environment. Puffed sleeves and buttoned up oxfords highlighted the collection’s overall bookish and demure charm.
Yohji Yamamoto celebrated his trademark billowy silhouette in his latest collection for Y-3, but there were plenty of unexpected elements peppered throughout the runway. An array of mesh netting in black and white underscored the designs collegiate athleticism. Yamamoto’s reinterpretation of the soccer pinnie elevated gym class attire to heights it never dreamed of reaching. Pops of safety cone orange and neon pink gave the pieces a joyous, youthful sensibility. At the show’s close, Yamamoto took the stage (his second time ever!) and kicked a soccer ball into a net—the perfect punctuation for such an animated collection.
CARMEN MARC VALVO
Carmen Marc Valvo’s presentation for spring 2010 was a testimony to why he is adored by so many in Hollywood. Ruching, plunging necklines and silk metallics imbued the pieces with sensuous glamour worthy of a starlet. The designs shifted from light and airy blues to a smoky color scheme, moving the collection from simply sexy to darkly mysterious. The presentation offered flattering designs for an extensive range of silhouettes, reminding us why the label is so broadly appealing—simply, the clothes promise to make the figure look its best.
Carolina Herrera's eveningwear is no doubt the highest-profile department of her line (especially come award season, or any Renee Zellweger premiere), but for spring we were reminded of her skill in daywear and separates. Herrera was inspired by woven Japanese baskets, which meant shorts, cropped jackets, and even strapless gown in gorgeous rope-weave jacquard linen - understated glamour at its best. Of course, the collection wasn't lacking in formal elements: tea-length dresses were a fresh alternative to the classic evening looks (an ivory raffia version on Lily Donaldson was a standout), gowns in caramel chiffon were treated to look like a jacquard and a stunning violet basket-weave jacquard one-shoulder gown made for another lovely showing from Ms. Herrera.
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