2009 September 14
(New York) THOM BROWNE
Gentelmen, any particular reason why you don’t dress this way? And, Thom, please bring back that collection for women.
Derek Lam drove home the idea that he is among today's clasic American designers with a spring collection that was sophisticated and luxe-but with a playful new aesthetic. Sumptuous suede, sporty touches like an exposed zipper or contrasting piping, and colorful florals upped the ante on Lam's Americana-themed collection that the designer described as both "patriotic and democratic." It would have been easy to go over-the-top with multiple star prints and accessories, but as always, Lam's subtle touch prevailed. A series of colorful sequined and beaded looks took the collection to an exuberant new level, and Lam's accessories were just as covetable; a deep blue Nappa bucket bag and a ladylike chain-strap shoulder bag will have his loyal fans scambling to his new downtown boutique come spring.
Behnaz Sarafpour has always been a proponent of lace, and she continued her love affair with the fabric this morning. This time she was influenced by 1930s photographer Edward Steichen, in particular a photograph of Gloria Swanson swathed in black lace. “I want the collection to look very of the moment,” the designer explained. Sarapfour’s lace was much less in-your-face, and strips of shocking pink ribbon created a modern look that doesn’t harken quite so loudly to the past. Sarafpour’s ultra-wearable collection, filled with pleats and bows, was sweetly delicate without ever verging on prissy. Shifts in confetti-colored sequins erupted on the runway, striking the perfect balance between demure and untamed.
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