2009 September 13
(NEW YORK) SHIPLEY & HALMOS
“We started out this collection, as we do most collections, by focusing on the idea of conflicting elements and trying to recreate them into something new. This season we wanted to focus on static versus motion,” offered Sam Shipley of Shipley & Halmos. The duo’s presentation was an exploration in structure versus fluidity. Sharp lines in suits and athletic drawstrings accenting billowy tops created a dichotomous allure. The Camel-tones and cool grays provided the color palate, with bursts of powerful eggplant and cherry. Soft cottons, woven wool crepe and airy chiffon added depth to the collection, and provided an intelligent, witty sensibility to the pieces.
1930s goddess mixed with S&M may seem a strange combination, but designer Thuy Diep pulled it off confidently; the former with silky dresses and wrap tops, the latter with zippers—lots of zippers. Used as pure adornment on pants or as a sexy fastener that ran up and down (and sometimes across) garments, the silver zips added an edge to a collection full of chic, wearable pieces. Biker jackets and pleated, cropped pants gave a modern touch.
Rachel Roy gave menswear a sexy touch for her spring collection. Fluid trousers, button-downs reinterpreted in silk, and a jumpsuit that mimicked a suit all lent to the “a little bit Marlene the ‘40s, a little bit Talitha Getty from the ‘70s “ aesthetic—but in a thoroughly modern way. It wasn’t all borrowed from the boys, though. Expertly draped dresses and skirts balanced the menswear look, and high-waisted sailor skirts had plenty of sex appeal on their own. The sherbet-colored shoes added another feminine touch.
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