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2009 September 11

Runway Reviews

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Chadwick Bell Spring 2010 Chadwick Bell Spring 2010
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(NEW YORK) CHADWICK BELL
Chadwick Bell presented a sophisticated, streamlined collection at Ilili on Thursday, inspired by an untitled work by Joan Miro. Where some might take an abstract approach to interpreting a work of art, Bell went literal: his first series of looks were in simple canvas gabardine, representing the canvas of the piece. Though the silhouettes didn't vary much from look to look, they were at once innovative but classic--a jacket wrapped around the body with a narrow belt that disappeared under one side. Skirts were tulip-shaped, modern and very chic. A cotton moire fabric imitated tree bark interpreted from the painting, and the shiny panels, manipulated into two gorgeously luxe dresses, were no doubt the highlight of a lovely collection.

DAVIDELFIN
David Delfin may be a Spanish former actor with friends like Pedro Almodovar, but chicsters as well as film buffs should remember his name. In the first official show in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents, Delfin sent out a focused, tailored collection--with a twist. "Ambiguity has become the core for our work, transforming into a trace, our sign of identity. We feel attracted and trapped by the androgynous and the undefined because it arouses the imaginary in us," said Delfin via his run of show notes. Translation? Men's and womenswear that was practically interchangeable; tailored suiting and shirts, with quirky "undefined" elements like pants with an attached skirt or a button-down mysteriously missing a sleeve. Delfin's color palette stayed in the greens and blues, bringing a springy edge to a light collection.

PORTS 1961
The quiet success of designer Tia Cibani is no doubt due to her uncanny ability to bestow a retro-Zen, calm chic upon everything she touches. The result is, more often than not, simply resplendent clothes that stay faithful to a very confident designer's sensibility rather than pass trends.This was a standout season for Cibani that should position Ports 1961 among the most shoppable of the Sprin 2010 collections. "I wanted to have a little discipline," said the designer about her cream, camel and chocolate palette. But there was a distinctive pop of cherry red that radiated from the models eyelids, leapt out from a sheath dress and perched on tips of sting ray platform shoes.A little discipline. A lot of talent.

MICHAEL ANGEL
"What an amazing way to start this week. It was absolutely refreshing!" said an elated Linda Fargo of Michael Angel's spring collection. As the official Fashion Week opener, Angel clearly did not disappoint. Backstage the designer discussed Dior's New Look, and once the lights hit the catwalk, it's influence on Angel's collection was apparent. Employing a sharp, futuristic shape with a classic edge, Angel's playful bustiers, pleated tops, tulip skirts and sculpted dresses each created a sharper version of the hourglass figure, making the looks both feminine and severe. A combination of graphic prints, geometric shapes in rich shades of turquoise, fuchsia, jade and lavender were juxtaposed against delicate patterns for a vibrant and dynamic look. Swarovski crystals injected shimmed to sleeves, frocks and even zippers. Save a few too-short skirts, the collection was a refreshing burst of brightly-colored fun.




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