2009 September 11
(NEW YORK) PRABAL GURUNG
"I started with my mom’s 1971 YSL perfume bottle," said Prabal Gurung of his highly edited and beautifully constructed Spring 2010 effort. "I did packaging in the past and that’s where it all starts. We’re in an age in which reality and imagination is blurred." This young talent certainly knows a thing or two about packaging and presentation. His pieces were imbued with the YSL, circa 1971, spirit he invokes. Except through his unique vision he reinvented both the moment and the style making a very big statement of his own. A career to watch.
"Experiments in geometry" was the concept behind Yigal Azrouel’s spring collection. A well-known master of downtown chic, the designer used drastic jet and nude color blocking to create a dramatic and harsh contrast. Jagged black bandeau tops brought an edge to billowy white tanks and angular linen blazer oozed a coolness from each of its wide-set strips. The ash bomber jacket with exaggerated lapels was decidedly Yigal, and a crowd favorite with its distressed lambskin and studded shoulders. But it wasn’t all rough and serious. Yigal employed a muted Aztec print to break up the mood. Explained the designer, "I tried to create a print that was more classic and that worked with the collection and the graphic lines."
It probably takes a model to carry Preen’s panels of thick silk padding positioned most ironically on the hips, thighs and bellies of their Japanese bondage concept pieces. But then again it’s what models are for. Back to earth, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, brought their Londoner sensibilities to a glorious metallic pant and a playful menswear-meets-Victorian lace look that was beyond sexy and savvy. For dessert they sent down the runway a sorbet-colored, bow-tied jumpsuit.
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