News & Scoops

2009 September 11

Runway Reviews

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Vena Cava Spring 2010 Vena Cava Spring 2010
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Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai one again managed to translate their potentially indecipherable message into accessible, beautiful clothes that cool girls love to wear. Leather jeans got a fresh twist in navy, whimsical prints were grounded with cozy cardigans and the simple black dress got a woven embellished neckline.

Print may have been the theme of BCBG Max Azria’s show, which went all the way to rock star sophistication via abstract expressionism a la Pollack. But its great accomplishment was to deliver a new and wickedly attractive jersey. Fusing structure and fluidity he made delicately draped dresses with harsh edges, architectural shoulders and necklines and an unexpected white crepe and jersey-blocked frock, which simply stole the show.

Monique Lhuillier is  known as a designer of all things glamorous--and rightfully so. Although she took a different direction for her Spring 2010 collection, it remained in her feminine, Hollywood-adored style. Masai warriors were the starting point for the designer, an arguably un-glam inspiration, but Lhuillier incorporated the bright colors, draping and fringe easily into her collection, giving her gowns a fresh new look. Sunflower yellows, leopard prints and metallic tweeds made for lovely Grecian-style dresses, a stunning fringe and macrame'd cocktail dress, and one killer trench.

With such a trendy team behind her, it's no wonder Jen Kao has accumulated the buzz: Keegan Singh styling, jeweler du jour Eddie Borgo for an accessories collaboration, PYT Julia Restoin Roitfeld sitting front and center. Kao's collaborators certainly enhanced her show, but the collection stood on its own--a young, hip line that is destined to sell in LES boutiques and Barneys alike. Body-con minidresses, leather motorcycle vests and jackets (some with intricate cut-out sleeves), sheer slouchy tees, and all topped off with amazing (and noisy!) chain-fringed shoes. Not everything was Alex Wang-esque trendy, however; blazers with folded oragami-esque lapel details showed Kao's skill as a tailor and gave the collection some structure.

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