2009 July 7
(PARIS) Christian Dior
Unwinding the myriad of ideas presented in a Dior collection is the greatest pleasure of experiencing the show. For Fall/Winter 2009/2010, John Galliano returned to the Maison Dior for a salon-style runway show after many seasons of showing off-site. This was no budget-saving measure--rather, Galliano dug very deep into the DNA of Dior couture and realized that this particular art requires a particular presentation. On that note, models took to the runway very, very slowly, taking many opportunities to stop, pose, show off a leather glove, gesture to a diamond earring, and otherwise preen to the crowd. Even the most world-weary show-goers paused and admired the extraordinary craftsmanship that makes Dior's art so unique and valuable.
The first look consisted of a drop-dead gorgeous fuchsia jacket, molded and belted to perfection, worn with a flesh-toned girdle and collants. Entirely dressed from the waist up, Galliano seemed to play with the notion of single-item shopping. Hey, if you can only buy one thing...but that commercial approach wasn't really the idea at all. Instead, the lingerie evolved and gradually emerged as a key piece. Tightly-laced corsets peeked from the back of prim wool frocks, while lace-trimmed silk slips dangled underneath museum-quality skirt. Who needs a top when a nude soutien-gorge suits a ball gown so much better? This collection was all about foundations, but it refused to cater to washed-up classics. Even leopard print, a house staple, was stunningly reworked as a floor-grazing sash to a white chiffon goddess gown. A thigh-high, a bondage shoe, and a suite of diamond jewelry made for an inspired seasonal starting point that's bound to reverberate in the world of ready-to-wear. As the fashion world reconsiders what, exactly, couture is selling, Galliano suggests that it's neither an idea nor an item. Chez Dior, couture offers a singular look at the art of living. Surely today, everyone saw the value in that.
The Armani client deserves a bit of rock and roll, n'est-ce pas? At the Privé show, Mr. Armani showed a collection with a bit of sass. The trouser-centric take on evening dressing provides couture week with one of its recurring themes, and this season, the idea became jazzed up with a healthy dose of attitude. The pagoda shoulder made several cameos on tuxedo jackets, which were paired with a looser version of the straight-leg and tapered trousers Mr. Armani has toyed with recently. The rhinestone embellishment found on most looks in the form of an asymmetrical zipper or even a v-necked bodice made everything a little more rollicking. Front-row guests Cate Blanchett and Megan Fox represented two distinct sides of la vie privée--one respectively classic, the other endowed with a bit of a wild side. An animalier motif provided alternative daywear options, most memorably in an unstructured car coat. A series of 4 entirely jeweled pantsuits closed the show, underscoring Armani's insistence on his own particular brand of innovation.
Z Zegna has been handpicked to be this year’s guest label at Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade show based in Florence, Italy. Befittingly, the label and its parent company, The Zenga...
The U.K.'s beloved mass fashion retailer Primark is finally coming stateside next year. Primark is slated to open stores on the East Coast of the U.S. next year starting with Boston...
Top Male Model Cole Mohr To Put On Art Show [Dazed Digital] The 27-year-old model and Hedi Slimane fave is putting on a show at Marianne Vitale Studio next month...Can Rebekka Bay ...