2009 June 17
(NEW YORK) Lanvin
“We as designers love to dream,” said Alber Elbaz at the Lanvin resort presentation. “But I think these times force us to combine our dreaming with thinking.” That M.O. has translated into a very accessible and appealing collection for Lanvin that offered up plenty of affordable chic without the compromises. Elbaz introduced new, accessible t-shirt and dress pieces, denim standouts, a selection of flats, and necklaces all within the same price tag. Of course, there were plenty of colorful signature “nonchalant eccentric” looks that were uplifting and colorful while being paired up with pineapple necklaces and playful strawberry earrings. During his design process, Elbaz was inspired by the colors of Tahiti, the spirit of Mexico, and the unplanned beauty of India, and he has indeed produced a confident and spirited collection that can be celebrated virtually anywhere.
At first glance, Stella McCartney's resort collection looked a bit familiar. Was it because three of the 50-odd looks have been splashed across the pages of the glossies via Kate Hudson, Liv Tyler, and McCartney herself at the Met, or because the collection was full of the tomboyish separates that we've grown to adore? Regardless, McCartney's collection was full of fresh hits. Not only her signature boyfriend blazer, but jackets galore like slouchy, sporty anoraks, forties-shouldered tailored pieces, and a particularly cozy-looking buffalo check wrap cemented her status as standby for chic toppers (no leather? No problem!). The designer kept the effortless ease crucial in in a resort collection, but also upped her glam factor in full-length, sequined gowns--not an easy task, we imagine, but it's certainly the reason why Stella remains the cool girl's go-to designer.
From exquisitely detailed gowns to sumptuous furs, Gilles Mendel is known for the luxury he brings to his brand. For resort, the designer scaled back on the formality without compromising the luxe aesthetic. Cigarette pants were topped with a pleated bustier, red carpet-worthy gowns were cut to the knee for a more casual vibe, and a silver motorcycle jacket further toughened up the still-feminine collection. Of course, the gowns and the furs still made appearances, but with this resort sensibility: the gown in a vibrant red, and the fur in the form of a chic vest, topping off summery whites.
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