2009 June 3
(NEW YORK) Before designing the latest Calvin Klein Resort collection, Francisco Costa visited Ernesto Neto’s elaborate installation at the Armory. And while he wasn’t directly inspired by the exhibit, there are still certain parallels between the two artists. Both Brazilian men have developed a biomorphic, serene sense of minimalism throughout their careers. But Neto designs lightly-stuffed installations, while Costa, of course, continues to be a master of darted silk dresses, cropped pants, sensual mesh tops, and alluring layered skirts. “It really about this much-needed lightness and feel-good romance,” explained the designer. “I wanted to create a crispness that was really just soft.”
Softness was accomplished not only with light sand, cream, and milky gold tones but also with the continuously skillfully embroidered highlights, intelligent layering, and asymmetrical prowess. It was skillful, edited, and opaquely painterly collection. But as solid as the looks were, gold leather oxfords nearly stole the show. “We’ve been showing heels for so long but the house has such a strong history of flats and ease that we’ve decided that it was a right time to do these boots,” explained Costa. “And I think they’ll just do amazing!”
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